How to repair a snapped bonsai branch

A favorite bonsai is blown off a bench during strong winds and several important branches get broken. Or, when wiring a tree, a branch is bent a little too far, and the branch snaps. Many things can actually happen when the tree is not indoor and then timing for a quick fix is crucial for the survival of the branch or even the entire tree.

Judging by the number of questions raised on the bonsai forums over the years, these are events that have happened to all of us at least once. Very often an enthusiast has tried to repair the branch themselves and though the cambium layer repairs itself, the wound keeps reopening and is a weak point in the branch.

So how do you successfully repair a snapped branch? Or does it just need to be removed and regrown? Though I have seen many repairs and remedies offered by fellow enthusiasts (ranging from the ridiculous to the sublime) the best way of repairing a snapped branch is extraordinarily simple. When there is a will there's a way! An easy example reflected below illustrates how to fix a snapped branch. Chances of recouping the branch are pretty high and I am not worried that in few months the tree will be back growing in full swing as it did from the very beginning.

I've snapped this thin privet branch and it shows a pretty typical scenario. As a two-year-old shoot, the wood is quite brittle so it has snapped on one side while being bent into position. If the branch is completely separated into two pieces, it cannot be repaired and should be pruned away and the wound cleaned up. However, if one side of the cambium layer (branch) is still attached naturally, it can literally be glued back together.

A spot of bonsai glue (any brand) is put onto the surface of the wood. As the callus forms, the paste drops off gradually without leaving marks. I have used this cut seal on my bonsai for a number of years and can not say enough about it. It is easy to apply covers nicely and blends in with the bonsai so as not to make it stand out. Highly recommend getting this to add to your bonsai supplies.

and the branch is glued back together. It really is as simple as that! The glue glues the woody parts of the branch together very tightly and supports the branch while the wound (and cambium layer) heals. Eventually, both sides of the snapped branch grow together; this can take as little as 3 or 4 weeks on vigorous branches during the growing season. I find that the repair is so strong that the branch can be manipulated (wired into position) within 5 minutes of the repair being made. The repair site will have lost its elasticity though, so don't not try to create a bend at that point.

Click on the image to for more information

Any excess glue will dry a white color on the surrounding bark. It is unsightly so try to avoid using too much glue when making your repair but any excess will fall away naturally after a few months. Finally, always keep some bonsai glue to hand. If you do a lot of wiring you will find it becomes a valuable tool! I find that as thicker branches are stronger and more robust they tend to splinter rather than snap and so this article focuses on branches up to around 1/2" thick. However, repairs can be made using this technique with thicker branches. Bonsai glue is not poisonous to a tree and will not harm the tree or the branch, nor will split glue damage any leaves (it just looks awful). The glue can be used on woody or tender shoots. There is no need to wrap or protect the glued area on branches of less than 1/2", above this diameter, a thin spread of Vaseline over the damaged bark/cambium is more than sufficient. There is no need to wire the branch or for the branch to be wired for the repair to be successful. The fact is that bonsai glue dries very rapidly and will tolerate moisture (in the wood) which makes it so effective for repairing branches.

This technique can be used on all tree species; coniferous, deciduous or broad leaf tree during active growth or during dormancy. This is about it, that's all that it takes to repair a broken branch. I would appreciate your feedback and share your gluing experience with many bonsai enthusiasts around the world.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

The World of Japanese Maples

• Coonara Pygmy

  In spring, this dwarf Japanese maple unveils its pink-tinged leaves. The pink tinge fades in summer, but then in fall the Japanese maple leaves turns a brilliant shade of orange-red. Because of its small size, this maple is well-suited to containers.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Coonara Pygmy'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 8 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because: You need a Japanese maple for a container or for a small space.

  • Find more tips for growing Japanese maple trees.
• Green Cascade

  This fullmoon Japanese maple offers lustrous, finely cut green foliage and a delicate weeping habit. If not staked, it forms a flowing mound of foliage. In fall, the Japanese maple leaves turn shades of red and orange.

  Name: Acer japonicum 'Green Cascade'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: Groundcover to 10 feet or more

  Zones: 5-7

  Choose It Because: You need a good weeping variety.

• Autumn Moon

  Like the golden fullmoon Japanese maple, this Japanese maple features golden leaves. But on this variety, the leaves bear decidedly pink tones. In fall, these Japanese maple leaves put on a show in shades of red, orange, and yellow.

  Name: Acer shirasawanum 'Autumn Moon'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 25 feet tall and wide

  Zones:5-7

  Choose It Because: You need a Japanese maple with golden leaves.
• Hogyoku

  A great time-tested selection, this mid-sized Japanese maple tree bears rich-green leaves that turn bright orange in autumn. It's sturdy and tolerates heat better than many other varieties.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Hogyoku'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 15 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-9

  Choose It Because: You need a variety that's heat tolerant.
• Golden Fullmoon Maple

  An exceptionally beautiful plant, this Japanese maple tree features golden-yellow leaves through the summer. In fall, the leaf tips develop red edges while the leaf center stays golden.

  Name: Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 20 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-7

  Choose It Because: You need a Japanese maple with golden foliage.
• Beni Kawa

  A tree for all seasons, this Japanese maple features small green leaves that turn golden-yellow in fall. In winter, the plant really shines because of its clear-red stems. They look stunning against a backdrop of snow.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Beni kawa'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 15 feet tall, 12 feet wide

  Zones: 6-9

  Choose It Because: You want winter interest.
• Higasayama

  A favorite for bonsai, this dwarf Japanese maple tree offers pink buds that open into leaves colored in cream, green, and fuchsia. As the season progresses, the Japanese maple leaves fade to green, then change to glowing shades of gold and yellow in autumn.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Higasayama'

  Growing conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 15 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because: You enjoy variegated foliage.
• Emperor 1

  A favorite because of its dark purple-red foliage, the Japanese maple tree Emperor 1 is also a good choice for northern gardens as its leaves open a bit later than most -- helping it avoid late spring frosts. It also offers brilliant scarlet-red fall color.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Wolff'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 15 feet tall and wide

  Zones:5-8

  Choose It Because: You want a good red-leaf type or live in the North.
• Coral Bark

  A good-sized Japanese maple tree with multi-season appeal, 'Sango-kaku' features green leaves that turn brilliant yellow in fall. After the leaves drop, the stems show off a bright coral-red color.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Sango-kaku'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because: You want winter interest.
• Sumi Nagashi

  This big red Japanese maple tree variety offers deeply cut leaves and rich, purple-red foliage that looks good all spring and summer. In fall, the graceful leaves turn bright crimson.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Sumi nagashi'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size:18 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-8

  Choose It Because: You want a big red cut-leaf variety.
• Bloodgood

  A classic, the Japanese maple 'Bloodgood' offers deeply cut, purple-red leaves that hold their color well through the summer. Then in fall the tree develops striking crimson-red color.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Bloodgood'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 20 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because You want a time-tested big red cut-leaf variety.
• Villa Taranto

  This eye-catching variety of Japanese maple tree offers deeply cut, spidery leaves that emerge pink in spring, then fade to bright green in summer. In autumn the leaves again change -- this time to beautiful golden yellow.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 10 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because You want a small cut-leaf variety.
• Crimson Queen

  This stunning variety of Japanese maple offers weeping branches of beautiful crimson-purple foliage. In autumn, the finely cut leaves turn bright crimson.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Crimson Queen'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 12 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-8

  Choose It Because: You want a weeping red cut-leaf variety.
• Beni Schichihenge

  A smaller Japanese maple tree, this stunning variety offers blue-green leaves variegated in shades of pink and cream. In fall, they change to exciting shades of orange and gold. It also tends to resist leaf scorch from hot, dry weather better than many varieties.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Beni schichihenge'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 8 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-9

  Choose It Because: You want variegated foliage or a heat-resistant variety.
• Aconitifolium

  We think this is one of the most beautiful Japanese maples. It offers deeply cut, almost ferny foliage that opens to green and turns shades of red, orange, and yellow in fall.

  Name: Acer japonicum 'Aconitifolium' (also called 'Maiku jaku')

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 10 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-8

  Choose It Because: You need a cut-leaf Japanese maple with a great texture.
• Caperci Dwarf

  This small, slow-growing Japanese maple tree offers pink-tinged new growth that fades to green as the season progresses. Then in fall, the green leaves turn a nice shade of warm, glowing gold.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Caperci Dwarf'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 6 feet tall; 10 or more feet wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because: You need a Japanese maple for a container or for a small space.
• Vitifolium

  A big, sturdy Japanese maple tree, this variety offers wide, deep green leaves that turn bright shades of gold, yellow, orange, and scarlet in autumn.

  Name: Acer japonicum 'Vitifolium'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 25 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-9

  Choose It Because You need a Japanese maple that tolerates cold or warm weather well.
• • Dissectum Atropurpureum

    This classic Japanese maple variety bears deeply cut, feathery red-purple leaves that turn bright crimson in fall. We also love its graceful, weeping habit.

    Name: Acer palmatum 'Dissectum Atropurpureum'

    Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

    Size: 8 feet tall and wide

    Zones: 6-9

    Choose It Because: You want a good, small-size red cut-leaf variety.

    • Learn more about Japanese maples!

     Japanese Av Star

Awesome Organic Fertilizers - Review

Choosing the right fertilizer for your lawn can be a real challenge especially if you are just starting out and don’t exactly have a clue what to use. However, when it comes to choosing lawn fertilizer products, there are three important elements that are needed for the proper growth of your lawn and plants. These are: hydrogen, oxygen and carbon.

While these nutrients are readily available in the environment, there are also certain nutrients that are not readily available to plants especially those that do not exactly stay long in soil and need to be replenished on a regular basis.

Each of the nutrients contained in lawn fertilizers have a critical role to play in the overall health and survival of your plants. By applying fertilizers, you can be sure these nutrients are available to them.

Among the important macro-nutrients among plants include phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Secondary nutrients that are also required include magnesium and calcium but both in lesser quantities. You should also check for boron, copper, manganese, cobalt, chlorine, zinc, nickel and molybdenum to complete your list.

Milorganite 0636 Organic Nitrogen Fertilizer

With the much publicized adverse reactions of chemical fertilizers, the availability of organic varieties presents a great alternative for many. Milorganite is an organic nitrogen fertilizer that can be used on a variety of applications such as shrubs, lawns, vegetables, trees, flowers and even gold courses.

This 36-pound bag contains 4% iron that is non-staining, which is just the right amount to bring out that attractive lush green hue. You can actually apply this fertilizer any time within the growing season and it’s known to work well with any type of climate.

The organic fertilizer is composed of heat-dried microbes and has met the EPA standards, which imposes one of the stringent criteria in the industry when it comes to protecting the health, safety and environment.

Dr. Earth Organic 5 Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer

Dr. Earth Organic 5 Tomato, Vegetable and Herb Fertilizer is a superior blend of fish bone meal, feather meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, soft rock phosphate, fish meal, mined potassium sulfate, humic acid, seaweed extract, pro-biotic seven champion strains of beneficial soil microbes plus Ecto and Endo Mycorrhizae. Primary Uses: Feed tomatoes, Summer vegetables, Winter vegetables, Herbs, Root crops, Established vegetables and During transplanting. 5-7-3 formulation. This is the second year I have used this product and I even begin to say just how awesome it is!! Last year I had tomatoes that weighed over 2 lbs and lots of them. And the bloom boost is the best I have ever found, my flowers are just going crazy, and the flowers last a long time. I totally recommend this product!!

Safer Brand 9333 Ringer Lawn Fertilizer

A green lawn is a healthy lawn, and a healthy lawn is a product of a thriving ecosystem within your soil. That’s why Safer Brand has created Lawn Restore II – an organic fertilizer that immediately goes to work to ensure the proper balance of natural elements in your soil, in turn giving you a healthier, greener lawn in just 3-5 days. Backed by over a quarter-century of research and development, this formula is the best choice for any turf; use it to promote greening in fresh sod, or bring life back to existing grass. Number One reason to use, It's safe for humans as well as pets. Well I should qualify this, its the safest I have found so far.

Shin Nong PRO ORGANIC All Purpose Fertilizer

100% Natural & Organic fertilizer for All Purposes and easy to use. Maximizes microorganism activity for healthier and stronger soil & plants. It provides organic matter essential for microorganisms. It is one of the building blocks for fertile soil rich in humus. Develops bigger & stronger root to improve the structure of the plant and increase it’s ability to hold water and more nutrients. Greater resistance to disease and insect attacks. Never harms soil & plants. No danger of over-concentration. Once a healthy soil condition is reached, it is easier to maintain that level with less work.

This is an amazing fertilizer! I started growing an avocado tree about a year ago and my fertilizer didn't work on my tree. After countless types of fertilizer, I came upon this Pro Organic All Purpose fertilizer. I used it on my tree and after about a month it started growing! I strongly suggest you buy this if you plant anything.

DR. Earth Pure and Natural Fertilizer

Ideal for providing balanced and fast nutrition for all vegetables, flowers, bedding plants, potted plants, all trees, shrubs, annuals, perennials and even spot-treating lawns. Rich in wild-caught Alaskan Fish Bone Meal, Wild-caught Alaskan Fish Meal, Valley Grown Alfalfa Meal, High Country Feather Meal, Naturally-mined Potassium Sulfate, Aged Bat Guano, Cold Water Kelp Meal, Micro-active Micro nutrient-rich Seaweed Extract (synergistically boosted with 11% micronized humic acids for maximum bioavailability).

How Fertilizer Helps Your Lawn

Fertilizer helps to provide the required nutrients in the soil that plants, including lawn grass, need to successfully grow. Three of the elements that are vital include carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. In addition, there are other nutrients, which are quickly depleted from the soil that require replenishing. This is accomplished through the application of fertilizer.

Macronutrients including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium come in second behind oxygen, carbon and hydrogen, but are still important. Secondary nutrients such as magnesium and calcium are not as important, but smaller amounts can give your plants the boost that they need. Micronutrients including manganese, cobalt, copper, iron, chlorine, boron, molybdenum, zinc and nickel complete the nutritional checklist to ensure that your lawn is receiving all of the nutrition that it needs to thrive. These are the ingredients that a high quality fertilizer should contain. Read more about how to apply lawn fertilizer.

Different types of fertilizers

The two main types of fertilizers are granular and liquid. Liquid forms act very quickly as they are absorbed into the plant. These are usually purchased in a concentrated form that you dilute with water and apply every 2 to 3 weeks. They may either be applied with a watering can or hose-end sprayer.

Granular fertilizers are sprinkled on the surface of the ground by hand for smaller areas or with a mechanical spreader for larger areas. They are used in a dry form so will require watering after they are used. Granular fertilizers are divided into two different classes. Quick-release fertilizers usually last for 3 to 4 weeks before any additional applications are needed.

This type is water-soluble nitrogen and is good for any general fertilizing use. Slow-release granules are water-insoluble nitrogen fertilizers that are intended for specific uses. They come in either sulfur-coated coated with lasts for around 8 weeks or polymer-coated coated with lasts for up to 12 weeks.

Different types of lawn fertilizers

Your lawn has changing nutritional needs at different times of the year. Here are a few tips for helping you to select the right fertilizer formulation that will help to encourage the establishment of new grass and to keep it healthy throughout the seasonal cycles.

Starter fertilizers and winterizes

These mixtures are recommended for new lawns and as they are heavy on phosphorus to encourage healthy root growth. For the last fall application, a winterizer that is also heavy on phosphorus will provide nutrients for root preservation during the winter months.

Weed and Feed

Fertilizer formulations that are known as Weed and Feed mixtures contain weed killers in a dual purpose mix that kills broad-leaf weeds while nourishing lawn grass. This is useful for helping to eliminate noxious weeds such as crabgrass and dandelions. When a weed and feed product contains post emergent weed killers, they are intended for weeds that are already present and can be seen. Those containing pre-emergents are intended for killing weeds at the germination stage, but do not kill weeds that have already broken through the ground.

What to look for in lawn fertilizer

The bags that contain the fertilizer are clearly marked with a set of three numbers. The numbers represent, in this order, the amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium that are included in the fertilizer. The numbers are known as the NPK. These are the main ingredients. Nitrogen helps in the development of leaves and for producing a healthy green color. Phosphorus promotes root growth and Potassium or potash also assists root development and helps plants to become more disease resistant.

The numbers represent the percentages of the given nutrient, so you will know which ingredients are predominant. This is helpful in choosing a mix that will either promote more leaf growth, green your grass or reinforce the root system. Inert ingredients are necessary for helping to distribute the fertilizer, so don’t be alarmed if there is a fairly high percentage in the bag. This does not lessen the effect of the other ingredients and it can actually be beneficial in preventing chemical burn.

In the event that weeds become a problem, the application of a weed and feed blend will help to eradicate any broad-leaf weeds such as dandelions, which can become a nuisance. Look for weed and feed products that are formulated to kill the types of weeds that you see most in your lawn grass. In most cases, these are clearly indicated on the bag.

Conclusion

Lawns require very specific formulations with include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. There are different mixtures that serve a variety of purposes for lawn health. Fertilizers that are intended for other plants may not work as well for grass, so when shopping, look for the fertilizers that are specifically designed for use in lawn care.

Even if your lawn looks green and healthy, it is important to remember that grass has the need for nutritional elements that may initially exist within the soil, but may be fairly quickly depleted. Replenishing the nutrients is accomplished through the application of the recommended formulation of lawn fertilizer. You now have the information about what your lawn needs to maintain good health throughout all seasons of the year. By following the simple tips included in this guide, you are prepared to choose the lawn fertilizer that will work best to promote optimum lawn health. 

Once the hottest period is past, in late August or early September (depending on the region), temperatures return to normal, below 30°C (86°F), and plants then readopt their normal growth activity. This is also the moment when attention needs to be focused as much as possible on fertilization, which needs to supply the plant with the substances it needs to develop, consolidate new growth, reconstitute exhausted reserves and strengthen itself to best cope with the winter season.

In autumn, it is preferable to use fertilizers that are low in nitrogen, which is better for encouraging vegetative growth, especially for young plants and those that are in the construction phase. The feed also needs to be rich in phosphorus – to stimulate root growth and prepare a good flowering for the spring – and in potassium, to strengthen the plant, increase the roots’ assimilation capacity and consolidate the new growth that has been produced during the season.

Chemical fertilizers, which should be used with great care, can be put quickly to use by plants. Conversely, the nutrients of organic fertilizers need to break down by fermentation to be assimilated: this is why they can only be used by the roots 20 to 30 days after they have been applied.

More interesting articles on Bonsai can be found here:

Please click here for more information on --> Chinese Penjing Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> The Origins of Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> The Art of Saikei Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> Japanese Tanuki Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> How to Water a Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> Bonsai Healing Methods

Thank you for visiting my blog and feel free to subscribe or leave your message at the comment section below. Please always remember, good feedback or bad remarks, it doesn't matter!

  Jav

How to Grow Moso Bamboo from Seed - 種子から紅の竹

Growing moso bamboo (種子から紅の竹) is a great experience that basically enriched my life in terms of learning curve. Although Bamboo is not suitable for Bonsai, it's still a beautiful gras to have in your backyard. If you do plant it in your backyard, you will have to control the bamboo as their roots may give you unpleasant surprises over time. You could easily pick up 50% by learning how to plant giant bamboo and the rest by doing. Moso bamboo is a temperate species of giant timber bamboo native to China and Taiwan and naturalized elsewhere. The edulis part of the Latin name refers to its edible shoots. This bamboo can reach heights of up to 28 m (92 ft). This particular species of bamboo is the most common species used in the bamboo textile industry of China.

Moso bamboo spreads using both asexual and sexual reproduction. The most common and well known for this plant is asexual reproduction. This occurs when the plant sends up new culms from underground rhizomes. The culms grow quickly and reach a height of 90 ft or more (depending on the age and health of the plant). In mature individuals, the culms in young plants grow taller and wider in diameter as the general plant reaches maturity, but once the individual culm stops growing it will not grow again. P. edulis also flowers and produces seed, and it does so every half century or so, but it has a sporadic flowering nature and there are always a few individual plants in flower somewhere.

The seeds fall from the mature culms in the hundreds of thousands and are quick to germinate. Mice, field rats and other rodents take notice of the bounty of seed, this results in the loss of many of the seeds, but within a few weeks the surviving few seeds would have germinated. The first culm from a seedling will not get much taller than a few inches at most, and may be as thin as 2mm, but with every new culm sent up from developing rhizomes, the grove of plants will grow in height and cane diameter.

Moso bamboo is the most valuable bamboo in Asia, especially China, It is one of the most highly used plants for economic activities. The shoot have been providing food in Asia for thousand of years. Moso bamboo poles have been used to build houses and structure from the pre history time to now. New technology using Moso bamboo fiber to make flooring, clothing, plywood. Moso Bamboo’s strength, flexibility, and ready availability have made it a dominant structural material throughout much of the world for centuries.

I have done some testing on growing moso bamboo and documented the process in the my youtube video below which I feel proud sharing with you guys. Sadly it didn't turn out what I had expected but there could be many reasons behind the failure. The soil was perhaps too acidic or the seeds received were not fresh. However, I will not be giving up nor surrender attempts in planting bamboo. I also have to admit that the video shows the progress after four weeks, its advisable to wait 5 to 6 weeks for good results though. Thank you for watching the video and please take your time to subscribe to my youtube channel. I like to post videos on gardening from time to time and share success and failure stories with the audience.

In addition, some links on where to buy bamboo products on amazon:

Moso Bamboo seeds: http://amzn.to/2nNHu0T

Bamboo air purifier for cars and home: http://amzn.to/2n0UtxI

Bamboo cutting boards: http://amzn.to/2oMOKrt

More Bonsai articles can be found here:

Please click here for more information on --> Chinese Penjing Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> The Art of Saikei Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> Japanese Tanuki Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> How to Water a Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> Bonsai Healing Methods

Growing Hot Chilli Peppers in a Cold Climate

Chilli is a must have in every kitchen around the world. Its really hard to imagine my life without chillies. If anybody reading this has actually tasted my cooking, you will know how important chillies are to my daily routine. Most of the meals I have cooked without chillies are fairly disgusting, with the possible exception of cheese on toast, although this too is normally served with a generous quantity of chilli powder. It is therefore essential to me personally to have a reliable source of chillies, especially after the impending apocalypse and the only way to ensure the uninterrupted continuity of supply is to learn how to grow them myself. It's now the beginning of April and the chilli planting season has started. Now is the time to act, so I bought myself some seeds and equipment and wrote myself a comprehensive set of instructions.

The main key to growing hot chillies in cold climates is apparently temperature and humidity. Chillies hate the cold! 'The hotter the chilli, the more temperature dependant it is and the longer it will take for the seeds to germinate and the plant to grow to harvest time'. I also want to say thanks to everybody who has contributed to this project in the comments section below. It has been a real collaborative effort!

So, after some very extensive scientific research, here are my complete results:

The seeds can be sown in a good quality compost in multi cell trays and germinated in a warm place. Sometimes, especially with the hotter varieties, germination can take up to 4 weeks and so investing in a temperature controlled propagator unit might be a good idea. The ideal temperature is between 27 and 32 degrees C and it is important that this temperature does not fluctuate too much. The total possible temperature range is from 21 to 38 degrees C although germination may be more erratic.

The plants need good drainage and hate to be stood in water, so make sure your compost is of the free draining type, if possible. Sand can be mixed in if the compost is too hydrophilic.

Propagators - These vary in sophistication from the basic 8 watt system to the fully controlled 50 w delux versions. I myself chose a 20 w unit with no temperature control as it was cheap. I used a programmable timer to regulate the temperature and covered it with some insulation to keep the heat in. The instructions with the unit do say not to do this, but I don't see why not? The timer was programmed to come on for 40 minutes and then go off for 20 minutes as this kept the soil at a constant 28 degrees C quite nicely. Other options include using a digital water bed heater or a heated floor in your bathroom or an airing cupboard.

Use a digital thermometer to check the temperature stays within the correct range. Put the probe into the soil close to one of the actual seeds to get the best reading.

Seeds can be planted in January through to the end of March and the fruit will take between 80 and 180 days to ripen, depending on the seed variety. Soak the seeds over night in diluted feed solution or for 2 hours in potassium nitrate solution (0.33g per litre) to reduce germination times by up to 50%, and then plant the seeds 5 mm deep. For saved seed, see below.

Water thoroughly with warm water whenever the top of the compost is beginning to look dry, being very careful not to over water. Cold water may 'shock' the seedlings and delay growth.

Check the seed trays every few days or so for dryness and signs of germination. Once the seedlings have emerged they will need to have light so move them onto a window sill or somewhere warm and light. A glasshouse may be too cold at night time to begin with, so in the house may be better.

As the plants grow, they will need potting on so as not to overcrowd the roots. They can also be fed
with liquid food suitable for tomatoes, especially if the leaves start to look a bit pale in colour. The maximum temperature should be 36 degrees C and the plants do enjoy high humidity. The minimum temperature is 16 degrees C so think carefully where the plants should be kept, especially with regards to night time temperatures. In cold climates it's generally going to be a glasshouse, poly tunnel or conservatory and it may even need to be heated/insulated during the night time.

The plants can be planted through aluminium foil so that light is reflected back off the top of the soil back onto the underside of the leaves. This can also reduce pests as they can no longer hide from the sunlight underneath leaves any more.

For the fruit to form, the flowers will need to be pollinated either naturally by insects or by hand using an artist's paint brush and the flowers may fall off prematurely if the plants get too cold. Use the paint brush between noon and 3 pm for best results.

The flowers will eventually fall off naturally and the fruit will then grow and can be harvested when they are filled out and become firm crisp and glossy. Pick one fruit to begin with and test it for heat and flavour. Remember, some of the varieties are EXTREMELY HOT! If you do want to maximise the heat of your chillies, stop watering the plants so much when the fruit has formed and if you want to maximise the flavour, keep on watering as normal.

Chillies are ready for harvesting when the pods come away nice and easily from the stalks. Also, upon inspection inside the pods, the seeds should be well developed ie the same size as they were when the originals were planted.

The harvested fruit can be stored very effectively in the freezer and most of the plants themselves can be treated as perennials, with some pruning needed in the Winter season. Dig the plants up, put them in pots and move them to somewhere warm and sunny and free from frost. Next season they will grow back stronger with an earlier and more abundant harvest.

If you are growing one single variety of chili, then save some of the seeds from your chilies for growing next year's plants. F1 hybrids can not be saved, but normal open pollinated varieties work well. Gently dry the seeds just enough to stop them going mouldy and put them in a paper bag or envelope and store them in a dark cool place away from mice. If you do have more than one variety in the same location you will get cross pollination, which will produce a new plant with unknown properties. When you come to use the seeds, wash them for 30 seconds in diluted detergent to remove the waxy natural germination inhibitor, then rinse and soak in water for 2 hours before planting. Some commercially bought seed may also need washing.

Chili plants may not always flower in the first year, especially the hotter varieties, but can be over wintered in a frost free conservatory or glasshouse to get a head start in the next season. The plants should be pruned back hard and watered every now and again dependent on ambient temperatures

If you live where there is a lot of wind staking plants is a must but also helps those plants that have large fruit and/or are heavy producers.