World of Bonsai and Gardening

Sun Protection Caps for Gardening Activities

Some like it short, some like it long! Different strokes for different folks but as a matter of fact, buying the right summer hat isn't easy simply because material plays a crucial role. Quality has to be on top of quantity, and this rule of thumb applies for caps too. You would not want to walk around with a PVC cap around, especially under a viscous and heating sun in the middle of summer. A great way to pick your perfect headwear is to learn a little bit about the materials that hat-makers use to build their products. Summer hats are ideal for backyard gardening and can be useful when watering bonsai trees.

This information is very important because it can give you an excellent idea of the insulating ability, breathability, and durability of the hat. Of course, these details also affect the price, so you’ll be aware of what you’re getting for your money.

Breathable mesh summer beret

Materials for Warmer Weather

It's hot as hell in here and no beret !

Cotton

Straw

Polyester

Bamboo

Linen

Something easy to wear in spring

Details to look for in Spring/Summer Hats

UPF Sun Protection

Wide Brim

Ventilation and Ventilation Holes

Sweat-Wicking Inner Bands

Water-Resistant (Rain and Light Showers)

You can freely click on images to get more information.

The Safari Neck Cap

Wide Brim Summer Hat with Neck Flap

The Latest Fishing Cap with Protection

Foldable Sun Protection Gardening Hat

The Gemini Ribbon Sun Hat

The Unisex Outdoor Sun Hat

The Classic Lanzom Straw Hat

Roll up Straw Wide Brim Hat

The Classic Panama Hat

Cause and Prevention of Bonsai Tree and Plant Diseases

Bonsai tree diseases can be very dangerous, and even fatal, to your plants. By recognizing the signs and treating the problem quickly, you will increase the chance of recovery and help prevent the spread of infection. Some trees are more susceptible than others to particular diseases or fungi, so it is important that you research your species and understand which illness are most common for your type of plant. Although an early sign of disease may be a late sign to react, however it's still on time to take necessary measures to save the tree from dying off completely. Diseases may manifest during change of season from fall to winter or from spring to summer. Transitions are the greatest enemy to detect diseases timely. From Chlorosis to root rot, there are hundreds of different diseases, however this article tells you about the most common diseases found in plants. It would madness to cover all diseases at once in a single article and a one pager would certainly not be sufficient. The PH soil scale may play a role in plant health too as it may not always be bacterial, please check my blog post information on different soil for different crop.

Cause and Prevention of Bonsai Tree Diseases

Once you know what causes the various bonsai tree diseases and illnesses, it will be much easier to know how to keep your plant healthy. When it comes to protecting your bonsai, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Improper care can cause your tree to become sick or stressed and make it more susceptible to illness and disease.

A strong, healthy plant is much less likely to contract viruses or develop fungi and moulds, so the best prevention is to give your tree everything it needs to stay in good health and protect itself from bacteria and disease.

You can prevent bonsai tree diseases by:

keeping your tree clean and free of dust and debris
keeping soil free of fallen blooms, fruit, or leaves
providing sufficient lighting, fresh air, and ventilation
making sure that soil is properly aerated, not too compacted, and replenished when needed
repotting to prevent your plant from becoming pot bound
applying fertilizer correctly
using proper pruning techniques and applying wound paste to encourage healing

Signs of Bonsai Tree Diseases

There are several bonsai tree diseases, viruses, molds, and fungi that can affect your bonsai, and recognizing a few common signs will let you know when your plant may be in trouble. Most diseased trees will show at least one of the following symptoms:

distorted or discolored leaves and flowers
loss of leaves out of season
yellowed, wilted, dried, or falling leaves
slow growth
wilted or drooping branches
dieback – the gradual dying of shoots and leaves beginning at the tips

Treatment of Bonsai Tree Diseases

Once you discover the presence of disease, the first priority is to make sure that you prevent it from spreading to the rest of the tree or to other plants in your collection. It is important to examine your bonsai regularly for signs of illness or infection. This will allow you to catch any problems early, and take all the steps necessary for a quick recovery. If left unattended, some bonsai diseases can cause severe damage, or even death.

If your plant becomes infected, you should:

1. Immediately remove your tree to a secluded location away from other plants to prevent cross-contamination or the spread of disease and infection.

2. Remove all affected leaves or infected growth.

3. Spray healthy foliage with a recommended fungicide.

4. Check for possible causes of disease such as root rot, poor ventilation, or over-moist soil.

5. Sterilize all tools used in pruning the affected tree.

6. Place the treated tree in a well-ventilated area with proper lighting to prevent reinfection.

Common Bonsai Tree Diseases

Black Spot: This fungus mostly attacks foliage and will appear as black spots or patches on the leaves. Eventually, the leaves will yellow, shrivel, and drop off. Once a leaf is infected, it must be removed from the tree to prevent spreading. Spray healthy foliage with a fungicide. Since water will encourage spores to travel to other parts of the plant, it is important that you do not water your tree until after all the affected areas have been removed

Leaf Spot: Similar to Black Spot, this fungus is characterized by white, black, brown, or grey spots (depending on the species), on leaves or small twigs and branches. Typically, blemishes will be white at first and then change to a darker color as the disease progresses. Eventually, lesions will develop, and foliage will wither and die. Any affected leaves, fruit, or branches must be removed immediately, the soil cleaned of any debris, and healthy foliage sprayed with a fungicide.

Efficient multi purpose handheld sprayer

Mold or Mildew: Mildew is a fungus that thrives in damp environments with insufficient sunlight and poor ventilation. A White (Powdery Mildew) or Black (Sooty mold) substance appears on the foliage, stems, or branches and can cause distorted growth, discoloration, and loss of vigor or dieback. It is impossible to completely eliminate the mildew from infected leaves, therefore the affected foliage and shoots must be removed as soon as possible. Spray the tree with a fungicide to prevent reinfection. Sometimes, Black Sooty Mould can be caused by an infestation of aphids or scale insects. Removing the pests by hand and/or spraying your bonsai with a mild insecticide will help eliminate the insects, but infected foliage will still need to be removed and a fungicide applied. Make sure to place your tree in an area with sufficient sunlight and ventilation.

Rust: This is a fungal disease that appears as yellow, orange, red, or brown raised bumps or blisters on the undersides of leaves. Eventually, the leaves will curl up and fall off. Although Rust infections are not usually fatal, they can cause severe damage to your tree. It is important to remove the affected area and treat the healthy foliage with a fungicide. Remember to place the plant in a well-ventilated area to prevent reinfection.

Chlorosis: This is a condition caused by a lack of chlorophyll and results from a damaged or compacted root system as well as nutrient deficiencies such as a lack of iron. Leaves will turn yellow but the veins will remain green and the plant will begin to wilt. Adding chelated iron to the water and taking proper care of your tree's roots will help treat chlorosis.

Root Rot: Improper drainage can cause roots to turn brown and mushy. Leaves will also become

Excellent book by Leslie Buck

discolored, branches may weaken and break off, and growth will be stunted. Affected roots must be pruned away and the bonsai transplanted into fresh soil. Make sure that your choice of container and medium allows for sufficient drainage so that roots are not overwatered.

Scab or Canker Diseases: These diseases can appear as a fading of leaf color, poor growth, or a swelling of the bark. Many canker infections develop after pruning, and treatment requires cutting out the infected areas and then applying wound paste. Other scab and canker infections may be caused by too much nitrogen or improper fertilizing. By following recommended fertilizing and pruning procedures you can prevent the occurrence of these diseases.

Red spider disease: The red spider is a common pest in both indoor and outdoor gardens. Bamboo bonsai plants are susceptible to this mite, as it eats the foliage. In addition to the red coloring, other species of red spider mites are yellow, orange or even green. They mature in only three weeks and start spinning webs on the bonsai trees. Many are resistant to pesticides, so some gardeners introduce predatory mites, including Phytoseiulus per-similus, to eradicate the problem. Gardeners might introduce one or two predatory mites per bonsai tree.

While prevention is the best way to stop the spread of disease and infection, there are times when even the healthiest plants fall victim. Recognizing the signs and beginning treatment immediately will help give your plant the best possible chance of recovering while also protecting the other trees in your collection. The bottom line is that prevention is better than healing. Prevention also costs less and the loss of a Bonsai can be avoided. I have written an article on Bonsai healing methods which goes one step further in Bonsai healing. If you wish to obtain more often updates on Bonsai world you can feel free and subscribe to newsletters. (see the right column at the bottom) In addition, your experience and comment or suggestion below is highly appreciated. Thank you!

Japanese Av Star

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

The Incredible Art of Tanuki Bonsai 狸 or たぬき

Tanuki Bonsai - The art of Tanuki Bonsai explained

The validity of creating a single bonsai from two separate sources of plant material (one of which has been long dead) has often been a matter of considerable debate within the western bonsai community. Such creations are referred to by the Japanese as “tanuki” bonsai and by many Westerners as “phoenix grafts.” In other words, when a living bonsai tree is joined with an interesting piece of deadwood to form a driftwood-style (sharamiki) bonsai, it is known as tanuki.

Regardless of their name, the process in their creation is basically the same. A large and interesting piece of dead wood is used as the centerpiece in the planting. A die grinder or dremel tool is fitted with a router bit and used to inscribe a groove in the deadwood and then a young leggy plant (most often a juniper) is nailed, screwed or otherwise affixed in the groove.

With the passage of time the young plant grows into the groove, the screws are removed and the composite creation, which is then shaped using traditional bonsai techniques, begins to take on the appearance of an ancient tree similar to many of the California and Colorado junipers we see collected from the American desert southwest. The deadwood and the living tree are usually not of the same species, but they will eventually look like one organism, at least to the untrained eye.

The Japanese Viewpoint

Classical Tanuki Sake Set

In the hands of a skilled bonsai artist the finished creation can be spectacular, but is it “valid” bonsai? Many Westerners, including this author, say “yes,” but among the Japanese the question is mute. Understanding how such creations got their name may help the reader to understand the Japanese viewpoint on the matter.

The word tanuki translates from Japanese as “badger,” 狸 or たぬき, an animal which is regarded in the west as particularly vicious and aggressive. However, in Japan badgers are regarded as sneaky tricksters. A popular Japanese folk story tells of a tanuki who dresses up as a Buddhist priest and visits each house in the village tricking the residents into giving him free food and money. In another more x rated version the tanuki visits a “house of ill repute.”

One can well imagine what he convinces the residents to provide. With this kind of a history it’s easy to understand how the word “tanuki” has come to mean “something that is not what it appears to be.”

This is not to say the Japanese never make tanuki bonsai… they do. They regard it as a fun and enjoyable diversion, but not to be considered in the same category as regular bonsai. You will not see tanuki displayed in professional shows in Japan because in the last analysis, they do not regard tanuki bonsai as valid. Like the tanuki of fable, such bonsai are not what they appear to be. They are in fact as Donald Trump would say, a fake!

A Western Approach

But are they fake? Perhaps it is a question of viewpoint. The term “phoenix graft” was first coined by noted bonsai artist Dan Robinson. His garden in Bremerton, Washington is a spectacular collection of collected and classically designed bonsai, but also includes an impressive collection of tanuki or as Jerry would say… phoenix grafts. Like the phoenix bird of classical Greek mythology, rising reborn and more glorious than ever from the ashes of its own funeral pyre, the phoenix bonsai uses long dead ancient wood and young new plant material to create a new artistic vision greater than the sum of its parts.

If, like a painter or sculptor our objective is to create a work of art which evokes an emotional or intellectual reaction from the viewer, then perhaps this type of bonsai is as valid as any other. We must ask ourselves a question. Do we honor our teachers by bringing new insights and new approaches to the art or do we simply pollute and debase it? It is a debate which will continue in the western bonsai community for many years to come.

It is not our purpose here to offer a solution to such a debate, but rather to simply present the mechanics and techniques for creating a tanuki bonsai. Whether you choose to display the finished creation at a bonsai exhibit is a matter for you to decide. Call it what you will, but always remember the words of another great artist. “A rose, by any other name, would smell as sweet.”

japanese mature horny wifes fumie tokikoshi

Selection of Deadwood

A classical piece of deadwood before bleaching

By virtue of the fact that deadwood is being used in its construction, a tanuki bonsai is a temporary creation at best. Whether “temporary” translates at 2, 22, or 202 years will depend largely on the kind of wood you choose for its creation. Water is the enemy. Any deadwood that is in constant contact with moisture is eventually going to rot and require repair or replacement. Therefore, not all deadwood will work, no matter how interesting its shape. It needs to be dense and very hard. The piece used in this article is a juniper snag collected from the western desert, very old and hard enough to pound nails with.

The upper portions of the deadwood that do not come into contact with the soil mass will weather fine, but those portions that extend into the soil mass and are in contact with moisture will rot quickly if they are not dense enough. Some people like to paint deadwood with a wood preservative to ward off the effects of moisture. This can be a good idea. There are many varieties available in the marketplace. However, you should take care that the chemical will not leach into the soil and damage the live tree planted next to it.

Deadwood Types

The six deadwood types;

Jin
Uro
Shari
Sharamiki
Sabamiki
Tanuki

Jin

A jin made from the leader is known as a top jin. Making a top jin can be a way for the grower to create a shorter bonsai and/or enhance the tapering of the bonsai. It is also important to keep in mind that when the leader is removed, the resources of the plant will be distributed to the remaining branches, making them grow more rapidly than before and with more vigor. It can also help the trunk grow thicker more rapidly. Another situation when the grower may opt for a top jin is when a bonsai has two leaders and that is becoming aesthetically unpleasing. By turning one of the leaders into a top jin, a better balance can be achieved.

On branches, the jin technique makes it possible for the bonsai grower to remove unwanted branches while simultaneously making the bonsai look older. It is up to the grower to decide how long the remaining deadwood (jin) will be. In some cases, it is kept very short, as if the branch had been naturally broken off near the trunk. In other cases, a longer jin is left. An aesthetically pleasing shape may be bent or carved into the jin.

Jins are typically created on coniferous bonsai. On deciduous and broad-leaf species, a jin can look unnatural, since jins on such species are very rare in the wild. When such a tree is injured, it is more common for the branch to rot and fall off the tree, leaving an indentation where the branch used to be. When a bonsai grower tries to copy this, it is called uro.

Uro

As mentioned above, the uro is a technique typically employed on deciduous and broad-leaf bonsai plants. In the wild, a severely damaged branch on such a tree is likely to fall off, leaving a small indentation. Over time, new growth will form there, but the healing will not be without a scar – a small hollow will be clearly visible. When bonsai growers try to mimic this on their tree, its called uro. The grower uses a tool to make a small, irregularly-shaped wound in the trunk.

An uro is often made when the grower wants to remove a branch and is afraid of ending up with an ugly wound if the tree is left to heal on its own. The branch is removed, and an uro is created, giving the grower more control over the end result.

Shari

Exposing deadwood on the main trunk of a bonsai is called shari. It can appear naturally or be created by the bonsai grower. The typical created shari is a shallow wound that runs vertically along the front of the trunk, or near the front of the trunk, exposing deadwood. (Creating one at the back of the trunk would not make much sense, unless it is an unusual bonsai that is intended for being seen from all angles.) In nature, shari is usually formed by a lightning strike or after a falling branch has ripped bark from the trunk below.

Sharamiki

When a bonsai is said to be in the sharamiki style, it means that it has a lot of dead trunk, and possibly also dead branches near the dead trunk area. In Japanese, sharamiki means driftwood, and the term is an allusion to the silvery and weathered look of the deadwood on the bonsai, reminding the viewer of bleached and worn driftwood stranded on a beach.

It is important to still have living bark connecting the roots with the live branches of the bonsai, otherwise those branches will die. The contrast between death and signs of life creates an interesting tension in the bonsai for the viewer. It is quite common for Sharamiki bonsai trees to not follow the conventional bonsai styles. Some bonsai growers carve the dead wood to make it look more weather-beaten.

Sabamiki

In Japanese, the word sabamiki means split trunk or hollowed trunk. In nature, this type of severe trunk damage can for instance be the result of a lightning strike. When a bonsai grower wish to resemble this effect, they remove the bark from the trunk before drilling or carving out the exposed wood to produce a wound. It is important that there is still enough bark connecting the roots of the tree with the living parts, since parts that lose their connection to the roots will die. Sabamiki is usually placed part-way up the trunk or at the base of the trunk. When created at the base of the trunk, the wound is typically very wide at the bottom and then tapers upwards.

Tanuki

Tanuki is also the Japanese name for the Japanese raccoon dog (Nyctereutes procyonoides viverrinus). In Japanese folklore, this animal is a master of disguise and shape-shifting, and also both mischievous, funloving and irreverent. It is easy to see how tanuki was chose as a name for this type of mix-and-match bonsai technique, which some purists doesn’t acknowledge as “real bonsai”.

The deadwood in a tanuki bonsai is often utilized to give the appearance of a weathered tree trunk. A groove or channel is carved out, and the living tree is fixed within using write, nails, screws or clamps. The living tree of choice is something that is vigorous and flexible enough to endure the process, such as young juniper. Over time, it will grow into the channel in the deadwood, and the securing can be removed.

The making of a jin is a bonsai deadwood technique employed on branches or on the top of the trunk. (Within bonsai culture, the top of the trunk is called “the leader”.) When the bonsai grower creates a jin, it is necessary for him or her to completely remove the bark from the start point of choice to the end of the branch or leader. Without the bark, the wood dies and dries out, forming the jin.Jins, both branch jins and top jins, are often created to make the tree look older, and also make it appear as if it had to struggle and go through tough periods earlier in its life. In the wild, jins would be formed by factors such as lightning strikes and storms.

Container Selection

Tanuki bonsai are not instant bonsai. You will be working with relatively young plant material which needs time to grow. Assume that you are a good three to five years away from being able to display the tree in an exhibition. Initially, you should select an oversized container. Eventually you will transfer the planting to a container suitable for showing. For now, something as simple as a large plastic bus pan or a wooden growing box will serve you well. Lots of room for root growth will also translate as lots of top growth. We selected an oversized mica training pot.

Bonsai lime sulfur to bleach deadwood

Plant Selection

Junipers are most often the plant material of choice for making a tanuki bonsai. This stems from the fact that most ancient trees with this much dead wood usually fall into the evergreen class. More often than not, they are junipers, but pines, yews, firs, and hemlocks might also be fair game. Remember the objective is to create something which looks like it could have been dug out of the landscape… not created for Disneyworld

Be guided more by the mechanical considerations. Fairly young, spindly plant material is required with a trunk diameter not much larger than your index finger. The material selected should be very flexible and willing to put up with having holes drilled through its trunk and getting banged a scuffed about during the creative process. Junipers and pines are very flexible and put up with this kind of treatment.

If you select azalea you will discover that the trunk and branches snap easily and that its delicate bark cannot withstand the bruising it will receive. At least for your first attempt, try to keep your problems to a minimum. In this instance we have selected a Shimpaku juniper. Bonsai lime sulfur is used to bleach deadwood --> click here for more details

Assembly Protocol

What follows is a step by step guide to creating a tanuki bonsai. Complete these steps exactly in the order listed. Artistic considerations are not the focus of this article, only the mechanical steps necessary to complete the planting. The traditional practices of asymmetrical balance and proper triangulation of the finished planting are the same as they would be for any bonsai. How you position the deadwood, where you cut the router groove and how you position the trunk and branches should be based on solid principles of bonsai design. On a separate note, it is easy to see how tanuki was chose as a name for this type of mix-and-match bonsai technique, which some purists doesn’t acknowledge as “real bonsai”. There are many bonsai shows where tanuki is not allowed.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

More Bonsai articles can be found here:

Please click here for more information on --> Chinese Penjing Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> The Origins of Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> The Art of Saikei Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> How to Water a Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> Bonsai Healing Methods

Thank you for visiting my blog and feel free to subscribe or leave your message at the comment section below. Please always remember, good feedback's or bad remarks, it doesn't matter!

Different Soil for Different Crops - さまざまな作物のための異なる土壌

First and foremost, to find out the right soil and pH level for your trees is not rocket science. The pH scale indicates acidity or alkalinity. A soil with a pH number below 7 is acid, while one with a pH above 7 is alkaline. Garden plants typically grow best in neutral or slightly acid soil (pH 7 or slightly below; see illustration at left). Most won't thrive in highly acid or highly alkaline soil, though a few have adapted to such extremes. In general, some nutrients cannot be efficiently absorbed by plant roots if soil pH is too high. If it is too low, on the other hand, nutrients may be taken up too efficiently: the excess cannot be processed fast enough and overloads a plant's system, causing it to languish and die.

Japanese Av

Local climate gives you a clue to the likely soil pH. In high-rainfall areas, soils are often acidic. It's in these regions that you tend to find acid-loving plants like azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, and blueberries. Alkaline soils, in contrast, are typically found in low-rainfall areas. Many of the plants popular for waterwise gardens--sorts that need little water once they are established--do well in soil on the alkaline side. The olive, native to the Mediterranean basin, is one example of a plant that thrives in alkaline soil; oleander (Nerium oleander) and pomegranate also perform well.

If you're not sure about your soil's pH, you can test it yourself with one of the inexpensive test kits sold at most garden centers. Such kits can be relied on to tell you whether your soil is basically alkaline, acid, or neutral. If you suspect that your soil is highly alkaline or acid--or if a do-it-yourself kit so indicates--you may want to confirm the diagnosis with a professional soil test. Such tests are analyzed by laboratories; along with the results, you'll normally receive recommendations for correcting the pH of the soil tested.

Lime, available in either ground or powdered form, is often suggested to raise pH. Ground limestone is the slightly less potent of the two and raises pH more slowly. The amount needed depends on the soil texture (more is needed for clay than for sandy soil, for example) and other factors. Wood ashes and oyster shell also make acid soil more neutral.

To lower pH, common sulfur is the least expensive choice, though ferrous sulfate and aluminum sulfate are sometimes recommended instead. Ferrous sulfate, which also adds iron to the soil, is of the most help to plants that show yellow leaves as well as overall poor health. You'll also lower the pH of alkaline soil over time by regularly applying organic amendments such as compost and manure.

To determine how much lime or sulfur to add, follow the advice included with your test results. If your soil is extremely acidic or alkaline and you need to change the level by more than one point on the pH scale, it's best to bring in a professional: he or she can both analyze test results and perform an on-site evaluation to determine whether the soil can be amended successfully and how best to go about it.

If amending the soil just isn't feasible, plant in raised beds filled with problem-free, well-amended topsoil; or choose native plants that thrive in the unamended soil.

Professional Soil Tester Three Way Meter

Foods for example can be classified into two groups namely the acidic food group and the alkaline food group. These foods are categorized as such because they affect the urine pH level when they are consumed. Hence, taking in too much acidic food will lead to systemic acidosis whereas too much ingestion of alkaline foods may also lead to severe alkalosis. Nevertheless, the proper balance of acidic and alkaline food intake is required for various purposes.

To understand more about this concept, it is important to know about the pH scale. This scale runs from 0 to 14 with the bottom half (0 to 7) belonging to the acidic range and the upper half (7.1 to 14) belonging to the alkaline range. Under normal circumstances, the human body tries to maintain a slightly alkaline pH of 7.4 through mineral deposition and withdrawal from bones and soft tissues. It is said that 50%-80% of the daily food intake must come from alkaline foods to retain the body’s acid-base equilibrium.

Alkaline foods include fruits (citrus, watermelons, papaya, mango, grapes, melons, pears, apples, banana, kiwis, peaches, pineapples, cherries, avocados), a range of vegetables (parsley, spinach, okra, broccoli, squash, celery, green beans, carrots, beets, lentils, tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips), oils (grape seed oil, olive oil, canola oil) and other food products like goat cheese, hazelnuts, chestnuts, raw sugar and wild rice among others.

Popular examples of acidic foods are blueberries, prunes, cranberries, white bread, prunes, pasta, wheat, pork, beef, shellfish, ice cream, peanuts, beer, alcohol, string beans, kidney beans, walnuts, plums, store-bought juices, rye bread, brown rice, organ meats, eggs, cold water fish, pumpkin, eggs, sesame seeds, corn oil, sunflower seeds, fatty dairy products, honey, margarine, lima beans, skinless potatoes, navy beans, pinto beans, canned fruits, oats, white rice, cashews, coffee, pistachios, wine, turkey, chicken, lamb and majority of condiments.

There are many health-conscious folks who believe that an alkaline-rich diet is better than its acidic counterpart. Having such will prevent too much acid from accumulating in the bloodstream as well as reduce the risk of degenerative disorders such as osteoporosis, heart disease, and cancers to name a few.

1. Basically, the majority of fruits, grains, and vegetables are alkaline foods while meat products are usually acidic in nature.

2. Because the body is slightly alkaline in nature, you must make sure to eat enough alkaline-rich foods because it is a lot healthier compared to eating too much acidic foods.

The story of Masanobu Fukuoka

Masanobu Fukuoka taking care of rice fields

Fukuoka was a plant scientist working in Japan in the 1940s, advising the government on the best crops and edible plants to sustain the country during the war. Shortly afterward, he had something of an epiphany about science and gave up his job and returned to the countryside to farm.

Science, Fukuoka concluded, is part of the problem, not the solution. It only seems to solve problems that it created in the first place, like a man who breaks his own roof and then is pleased with himself when he manages to fix it. When fields are ploughed, or trees are pruned, farmers create problems for themselves which means more work. Convinced there was a ‘natural’ way to farm without all these techniques, Fukuoka began experimenting with how little he could do. “I was aiming at a pleasant, natural way of farming,” he said, “which results in making the work easier instead of harder. ‘How about not doing this? How about not doing that?’ – that was my way of thinking”

Up in the mountains, he developed a method (or rather a non-method) that flies in the face of modern farming. “I ultimately reached the conclusion that there was no need to plow, no need to apply fertilizer, no need to make compost, no need to use insecticide,” he wrote. “When you get right down to it, there are few agricultural practices that are really necessary.”

This conclusion required a good deal of trial and error and lots of dead plants along the way. The One Straw Revolution tells his story, from his start as an idealistic young man to a troublesome visionary with a constant string of visiting experts, researchers, and traveling hippies wishing to learn his secrets.

Those secrets include such imaginative ideas as planting one crop before the other is harvested, so

Bestseller Book The One Straw Revolution

that the new crop gets the jump on any weeds. Fukuoka grew his vegetables ‘semi-wild’ on the mountain slopes, sometimes pressing seeds into balls of clay so they wouldn’t be eaten by the birds, and then throwing them out to take their chances. He farmed rice and barley, harvesting it and scattering the straw straight back onto the fields, a policy of “returning to the soil everything grown in the field except the grain itself”. Nitrogen fixing ‘green fertiliser’ such as white clover grew across the ground in between crops and across the orchard floor around his citrus trees. Chickens and ducks roamed free and ate the insects.

But, you don’t really read The One Straw Revolution for gardening tips. For one thing, it’s only directly relevant to Japan. More importantly, the book is as much a work of philosophy as it is a life story or an explanation of natural agriculture. Fukuoka believed that we don’t really know anything about how nature works, and that much of modern farming was setting itself up for failure. He rails against growing out of season vegetables that are a “watery concoction of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash, with a little help from the seed”, and Japan’s growing taste for meat. He predicted that if the Japanese diet continued to change the way it was, there would be a food crisis in thirty years time. In that he was not uncorrect – Japan is the world’s biggest food importer, and has led the charge in land-leasing deals in Africa.

“If we do have a food crisis it will not be caused by the insufficiency of nature’s productive power, but by the extravagance of human desire”, he wrote, advocating a simpler lifestyle closer to nature. His simple living code extends to work too. “I do not particularly like the word ‘work'” he writes in my favourite little passage. “Human beings are the only animals who have to work, and I think this is the most ridiculous thing in the world. Other animals make their living by living.”

Fukuoka is an amiable and ingenious writer, and The One Straw Revolution is full of passion for the earth and its generosity, and bemused irreverence towards false ideas of progress. You won’t agree with everything he says, perhaps his views on education and health in particular, but this is nevertheless an unusually wise and refreshing read.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. A fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

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Growing and Caring for Bonsai Trees

Sun Protection Caps for Gardening Activities

Cause and Prevention of Bonsai Tree and Plant Diseases

The Incredible Art of Tanuki Bonsai 狸 or たぬき

Jin

Different Soil for Different Crops - さまざまな作物のための異なる土壌