Cause and Prevention of Bonsai Tree and Plant Diseases

Bonsai tree diseases can be very dangerous, and even fatal, to your plants. By recognizing the signs and treating the problem quickly, you will increase the chance of recovery and help prevent the spread of infection. Some trees are more susceptible than others to particular diseases or fungi, so it is important that you research your species and understand which illness are most common for your type of plant. Although an early sign of disease may be a late sign to react, however it's still on time to take necessary measures to save the tree from dying off completely. Diseases may manifest during change of season from fall to winter or from spring to summer. Transitions are the greatest enemy to detect diseases timely. From Chlorosis to root rot, there are hundreds of different diseases, however this article tells you about the most common diseases found in plants. It would madness to cover all diseases at once in a single article and a one pager would certainly not be sufficient. The PH soil scale may play a role in plant health too as it may not always be bacterial, please check my blog post information on different soil for different crop.

Cause and Prevention of Bonsai Tree Diseases

Once you know what causes the various bonsai tree diseases and illnesses, it will be much easier to know how to keep your plant healthy. When it comes to protecting your bonsai, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Improper care can cause your tree to become sick or stressed and make it more susceptible to illness and disease.

A strong, healthy plant is much less likely to contract viruses or develop fungi and moulds, so the best prevention is to give your tree everything it needs to stay in good health and protect itself from bacteria and disease.

You can prevent bonsai tree diseases by:

• keeping your tree clean and free of dust and debris
• keeping soil free of fallen blooms, fruit, or leaves
• providing sufficient lighting, fresh air, and ventilation
• making sure that soil is properly aerated, not too compacted, and replenished when needed
• repotting to prevent your plant from becoming pot bound
• applying fertilizer correctly
• using proper pruning techniques and applying wound paste to encourage healing

Signs of Bonsai Tree Diseases

There are several bonsai tree diseases, viruses, molds, and fungi that can affect your bonsai, and recognizing a few common signs will let you know when your plant may be in trouble. Most diseased trees will show at least one of the following symptoms:

• distorted or discolored leaves and flowers
• loss of leaves out of season
• yellowed, wilted, dried, or falling leaves
• slow growth
• wilted or drooping branches
• dieback – the gradual dying of shoots and leaves beginning at the tips

Treatment of Bonsai Tree Diseases

Once you discover the presence of disease, the first priority is to make sure that you prevent it from spreading to the rest of the tree or to other plants in your collection. It is important to examine your bonsai regularly for signs of illness or infection. This will allow you to catch any problems early, and take all the steps necessary for a quick recovery. If left unattended, some bonsai diseases can cause severe damage, or even death.

If your plant becomes infected, you should:

1. Immediately remove your tree to a secluded location away from other plants to prevent cross-contamination or the spread of disease and infection.

2. Remove all affected leaves or infected growth.

3. Spray healthy foliage with a recommended fungicide.

4. Check for possible causes of disease such as root rot, poor ventilation, or over-moist soil.

5. Sterilize all tools used in pruning the affected tree.

6. Place the treated tree in a well-ventilated area with proper lighting to prevent reinfection.

Common Bonsai Tree Diseases

Black Spot: This fungus mostly attacks foliage and will appear as black spots or patches on the leaves. Eventually, the leaves will yellow, shrivel, and drop off. Once a leaf is infected, it must be removed from the tree to prevent spreading. Spray healthy foliage with a fungicide. Since water will encourage spores to travel to other parts of the plant, it is important that you do not water your tree until after all the affected areas have been removed

Leaf Spot: Similar to Black Spot, this fungus is characterized by white, black, brown, or grey spots (depending on the species), on leaves or small twigs and branches. Typically, blemishes will be white at first and then change to a darker color as the disease progresses. Eventually, lesions will develop, and foliage will wither and die. Any affected leaves, fruit, or branches must be removed immediately, the soil cleaned of any debris, and healthy foliage sprayed with a fungicide.

Efficient multi purpose handheld sprayer

Mold or Mildew: Mildew is a fungus that thrives in damp environments with insufficient sunlight and poor ventilation. A White (Powdery Mildew) or Black (Sooty mold) substance appears on the foliage, stems, or branches and can cause distorted growth, discoloration, and loss of vigor or dieback. It is impossible to completely eliminate the mildew from infected leaves, therefore the affected foliage and shoots must be removed as soon as possible. Spray the tree with a fungicide to prevent reinfection. Sometimes, Black Sooty Mould can be caused by an infestation of aphids or scale insects. Removing the pests by hand and/or spraying your bonsai with a mild insecticide will help eliminate the insects, but infected foliage will still need to be removed and a fungicide applied. Make sure to place your tree in an area with sufficient sunlight and ventilation.

Rust: This is a fungal disease that appears as yellow, orange, red, or brown raised bumps or blisters on the undersides of leaves. Eventually, the leaves will curl up and fall off. Although Rust infections are not usually fatal, they can cause severe damage to your tree. It is important to remove the affected area and treat the healthy foliage with a fungicide. Remember to place the plant in a well-ventilated area to prevent reinfection.

Chlorosis: This is a condition caused by a lack of chlorophyll and results from a damaged or compacted root system as well as nutrient deficiencies such as a lack of iron. Leaves will turn yellow but the veins will remain green and the plant will begin to wilt. Adding chelated iron to the water and taking proper care of your tree's roots will help treat chlorosis.

Root Rot: Improper drainage can cause roots to turn brown and mushy. Leaves will also become

Excellent book by Leslie Buck

discolored, branches may weaken and break off, and growth will be stunted. Affected roots must be pruned away and the bonsai transplanted into fresh soil. Make sure that your choice of container and medium allows for sufficient drainage so that roots are not overwatered.

Scab or Canker Diseases: These diseases can appear as a fading of leaf color, poor growth, or a swelling of the bark. Many canker infections develop after pruning, and treatment requires cutting out the infected areas and then applying wound paste. Other scab and canker infections may be caused by too much nitrogen or improper fertilizing. By following recommended fertilizing and pruning procedures you can prevent the occurrence of these diseases.

Red spider disease: The red spider is a common pest in both indoor and outdoor gardens. Bamboo bonsai plants are susceptible to this mite, as it eats the foliage. In addition to the red coloring, other species of red spider mites are yellow, orange or even green. They mature in only three weeks and start spinning webs on the bonsai trees. Many are resistant to pesticides, so some gardeners introduce predatory mites, including Phytoseiulus per-similus, to eradicate the problem. Gardeners might introduce one or two predatory mites per bonsai tree.

While prevention is the best way to stop the spread of disease and infection, there are times when even the healthiest plants fall victim. Recognizing the signs and beginning treatment immediately will help give your plant the best possible chance of recovering while also protecting the other trees in your collection. The bottom line is that prevention is better than healing. Prevention also costs less and the loss of a Bonsai can be avoided. I have written an article on Bonsai healing methods which goes one step further in Bonsai healing. If you wish to obtain more often updates on Bonsai world you can feel free and subscribe to newsletters. (see the right column at the bottom) In addition, your experience and comment or suggestion below is highly appreciated. Thank you!

     Japanese Av Star

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

More Bonsai articles can be found here:

Please click here for more information on --> Chinese Penjing Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> The Origins of Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> The Art of Saikei Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> Japanese Tanuki Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> How to Water a Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> Bonsai Healing Methods

Thank you for visiting my blog and feel free to subscribe or leave your message at the comment section below. Please always remember, good feedback's or bad remarks, it doesn't matter!

The Art of Saikei 栽景 - Planted Landscape

Saikei consists of two Japanese words, 'Sai' meaning a plant and 'Kei' meaning a view or a scene. Another way of describing this subject from a Chinese point of view is a Penjing Landscape, or rock, water, or land planting. And to confuse you even mere another name is Bonkei. Don’t get me to explain that one! Saikei is a descendant of the Japanese arts of bonsai, bonseki, and bonkei, and is related less directly to similar miniature-landscape arts like the Chinese penjing and the Vietnamese hòn non bộ.

It is the art of creating tray landscapes that combine miniature living trees with soil, rocks, water, and related vegetation (like ground cover) in a single tray or similar container. A saikei landscape will remind the viewer of a natural location through its overall topography, choice of ground materials, and the species used in its plantings.

Unlike bonsai this style gives you the opportunity to play with cuttings and seedlings. You can also use developed smaller bonsai. In addition to this you can also work with small stones and rocks. As this material is within everyone’s reach Saikei can be the perfect starting point for aspiring new enthusiasts. The art of Sakei became popular in the US around 1960 but it was already known since some early Chinese settlers came to america to build the railroad.

Saikei is planted up in a shallow tray. This is usually a rectangular or oval shape. You can also use very flat rocks. The best colour for the base is earth tones for a natural look.

Your main objective in creating a Saikei (or any other name that you choose) is to imitate a landscape

Moss Spores used for Bonsai landscaping

in nature. For this of course one has to understand nature just like in bonsai. This time you have to observe the total scene in the environment, not just what the environment has done to the tree. It is a good idea to observe rocky scenes, mountain sides, and coastal scenery to get a feel for this style. Observe how the trees grow and the direction and shape of the rocks.

Creation of a Sake can be done with the same species of trees or a mixed variety. Make sure the leaves are small. Some can have berries or flowers. lf a variety of plant types are used make sure they are in harmony with each other, for example colour and texture, if you want your Sake to appear realistic. If you choose small young trees you will get the chance to explore shaping and arranging without the expense of large expensive trees.

Stones and rocks can be included. Make sure they have interesting shapes. Rough and jagged surfaces are better than smooth shiny ones. The stones must be all of a similar type and texture and be a variety of sizes. For example a stone with a white streak down the side of it can be used to create a waterfall or an arched rock could be a seaside cave- Fine gravel is also used for pathways and seaside scenes.

Grasses and mosses are also an important component. These are best being very small in leaf and fine in texture. Different types and colours of moss can be used to create texture.

Figurines of animals, bridges, people, boats and pavilions can also be added. These add interest and can personalise your Sake. It must be remembered though to keep these additions in proportion.

So if you want to create something truly memorable get together the following; flat rectangular or oval tray, or large flat rock. A selection of rocks and gravel. moss, grasses and last but not least a selection of small trees and have a go. Bring your creation to your next bonsai club meeting for discussion.

Saikei History

To better understand the art of saikei, we have to go back in it's history. The school of saikei was founded in Japan by Toshio Kawamoto after World War II. Kawamoto was born in 1917, the eldest child of the bonsai master Tokichi Kawamoto, and was trained in the art of bonsai. In 1960, following

his father's death, he ran the family bonsai nursery Meiju-En. He actively promoted the practice of saikei after this time, publishing two seminal books on saikei (Bonsai-Saikei and Saikei: Living Landscapes in Miniature) and participating in the creation of the Nippon Bonsai-Saikei Institute and the Nippon Saikei Association.

At the time Kawamoto began developing the rules and form of Saikei, the practice of bonsai was at a critical low point in Japan. The labor-intensive cultivation of bonsai had been near impossible under wartime conditions. Many bonsai, in development or completed, had died in the nation's major collections, as well as in the gardens of individuals across the country. Post-war economic conditions made the purchase and cultivation of a real bonsai almost impossible for average Japanese households.

Kawamoto created a simple form of tree display providing many of the aesthetic and contemplative qualities of bonsai, while also supporting the cultivation of plant stock that could eventually be used as bonsai material. He based this art form mainly on the principles of group plantings from bonsai and rock displays from bonkei and bonseki. His original objective was to age and thicken up the trunks of young nursery stock. Saikei was a way for inexpensive plants and stones to be brought together in a pleasing arrangement, easily accessible to the average person. As a saikei specimen aged, it would produce candidate bonsai trees, which could be removed from the saikei for cultivation as bonsai.

As a relatively young art form, Japanese saikei does not have deep traditions of its own. But it is related to a number of older confined-landscape forms popular in Asia, including Japan's bonkei, the Chinese art of penjing, and the Vietnamese art of hòn non bộ. The term penjing applies both to individual trees growing in containers, similar to bonsai, and also to detailed miniature landscapes which include trees, other plants, rocks, soil, water, and miniature figurines of people, animals, and other items. Similarly, hòn non bộ emphasizes the creation of stylized miniature islands projecting from a body of water and carrying a burden of trees and other plants.

In post-war Japan, saikei was seen as an environmentally and economically responsible way to propagate trees for eventual use in bonsai. Even economically constrained individuals or families could enjoy many of the contemplative and aesthetic benefits of bonsai, without incurring the effort and the costs related to mature bonsai specimens. The same benefits accrue to saikei today.

The ancient art of Bonsai landscaping 1974

More Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

More Bonsai articles can be found here:


Please click here for more information on --> Chinese Penjing Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> The Origins of Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> The Art of Saikei Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> Japanese Tanuki Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> How to Water a Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> Bonsai Healing Methods

Bonsai Tools Explained

You will be surprised to find out that countless Bonsai care tools exist throughout the World of Bonsai. Please always remember the saying ''different strokes for different folks'' meaning that some tools may be good for hardwood but some others don't. Another point to remember is that expensive does not necessarily translate to good bonsai tools. 

There are literally dozens of types of Bonsai Tools that have evolved over the millennia, tool that are specialist in their use, like the branch splitter; and some like the Jin Pliers, which have evolved from everyday home utensils. The Jin Plier are no more than Chinese Tongs used to hold the hot wok with its Angled tapered head and nose.

Over the years, Bonsai Tools have become essential for Bonsai professionals. Bonsai trees that are cut with simple scissors can not achieve clean and sharp cuts as Bonsai Tools do.

I shall present the tool grouped by how they are applied to everyday Bonsai maintenance tasks, like Pruning, Re-potting, Shaping and Wiring, and Carving, Feeding and Watering. I have found a nice video on youtube that gives a glimpse on Bonsai tools for beginners. It explains why you should start with cheaper tools first.

Branch & Leaf Pruning

Bud & Fine Twig Shears (Koeda Kiri Hasami) - These long reach scissors are designed for pruning delicate branches, twigs and buds. Their long slender handles are ideal for those difficult to reach places.

General Purpose Shears (Ashinaga Basami) – These comfortable shears are for your every day

Branch & Root Shears (Hasami) - This heavy duty tool allows you to prune your Bonsai’s thicker Roots and Branches. Its broad blade allows you raverse the fully width in one clean cut, allowing for smooth and clean cut end to end, and good for healing cleanly and quickly. To use, for pruning fine to medium branches and roots. Do not walk into your Bonsai Garden without them. The large handles allow you to use all your palm and fingers to exert maximum pressure.

The Concave Branch cutter (Mataeda Hasami) - is used to remove a whole branch at the trunk. The concave cut left behind fills over itself leaving little or no scar.

The Knob cutter (Kobu Kiri Hasami) - leaves an almost spherical cut on the branch thereby allowing it to heal flush with the surface. 

Leaf cutter - Easy to use, spring loaded leaf cutters, with razor sharp blades, it makes defoliating trees a breeze.

Re-potting Tools

Root Cutters – In shape almost like the Branch splitter, but the cutting lips are not as deep as those of a branch splitter, and the lips are positioned at a slight angle as the Branch Splitters are positioned horizontally. Ideal for cutting the thicker tap roots and adventitious roots and for nipping out root stumps closer to the trunk.

Root Hooks – Single and Multi-pronged invaluable tool when re-potting. The single-pronged hook is used to tease out individual and difficult roots, while the multi-pronged hook is used to untangle root balls.

Drainage Screens – Draining Sieves play two roles, one it prevents the loss of soil from the drainage holes, and second it helps keep insects and another pest out of the pot. Use a non-clogging variety of drainage screens.

Rakes – Like root hooks are used on smaller root balls, and to plane or rake the surface of the soil on a Bonsai pot to remove debris or to agitate the topsoil if it has got compacted or to remove surface weeds.

Tweezers – have a multitude of tasks but are mainly used to remove weeds and unwanted buds.

Spatulas – Very important tool, make sure you get a strong heavy metal-grade spatula, is used for many tasks around the potting shed, but I think the most important of them is to tease those stubborn little trees out of their pots when you need to re-pot them.

Sieves – To ensure that you use just the right size grit or growing medium for you bonsai. 

Scoops – In valuable little helper, beats having to use your hand to fill the pot with, some of these handy scoops even come with an in-built sieve.

Tamping Trowel - Used to tamp down soil when re-potting or after mixing in solid bonsai feed.

Coir Brush – The brush end is used to smooth down soil surfaces and give a finished look, or just brush-off dead leaves and debris of the surface. The handle end made be used to clean or rub off branches and trunks unsightly loose bark or lichen, or perhaps even the odd pest.

Carving Tools

Shari and Si Diao Carving Tool - are used for creating and enhancing the quality of deadwood display on Bonsai.

Hand saw – for use in lots of little tasks. Look for a pull saw version if you can find one. Essential for when you are on those collecting field trips.

Grafting Knife – ideal for carving and also for propagation purposes.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring, and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

   Jav

What To Know Before You Buy A Bonsai Tree

Whether you buy a bonsai tree, grow bonsai starters or begin with pre-bonsai.What a bonsai isn't. A bonsai tree is not a house plant. The word "Bonsai" means tree in a pot. Almost any variety of tree can be fashioned into a bonsai tree. But, these trees need special care. Bonsai must watered every day or two. If you go on vacation someone must care for it like your dog. A bonsai is a tree and needs the same conditions as any tree in nature. Almost all bonsai should live outside. Some trees need full sun, some need shade. Bonsai need to be routinely pruned to retain their shape. Most commercial bonsai are junipers and most are nothing more than seedlings slapped in a pot. Junipers will probably die if kept indoors. True bonsai are artistically styled over many years. Anything else is just a tree in a pot. Cost is a good indicator, like any good art it could be quite an investment. A true bonsai is not cheap, after all someone spent many years developing it. This list of basics will help you select and create good subjects:

• Healthy Plant – This may seem obvious, however, from time to time we find sickly plants that are nicely shaped. We want to save them!

No matter how tempting, buy finished trees and starters that are healthy.

This means appropriately green leaves or needles (depending upon the time of year), stability in the pot and lack of pests. A yellowing evergreen, a plant wobbly in the pot and/or misshapen or damaged leaves are all signs of problems.

• Trunk – Begin your bonsai with something that already has a good start. Bonsai that are basically small rooted cuttings or seedlings, are more than a long term proposition. Unless it is a rare plant, it is usually a waste of money. Short or tall, a proportionately heavy trunk makes a tree look older.

• Taper - Taper means the trunk is wider at the bottom and narrows towards the top. Branches should also narrow toward the tip. Trunks or branches shaped like 'poles' rarely become good bonsai.

• Proportion - Leaves, fruit and flowers must be in scale with the final height. If you want to create or buy a bonsai tree that will remain small, big leaves will detract from the idea of it being a small tree. Those same leaves may be fine on a larger bonsai of the same species. Fruit and flowers rarely reduce in size.

• Dead branches and or scars are signs of age. They can always be created, however, if they are already present you have a head start. If you are selecting a tree that has driftwood, be sure it looks natural.

• Nebari - is a Japanese word that refers to the surface roots that flair out from the base of the tree trunk. That flare is highly valued and adds to the look of age. This Ficus bonsai by Ed Trout is an excellent example of good nebari.

• First Branch - When you buy a bonsai that is an upright plant, a good first branch is important. It helps if it's approximately one third the way up the tree's finished size. It should also be the heaviest branch on the bonsai. If all or most of the big branches are in the top of a plant, consider another plant.

• Lots of Branches - When you buy starters to create your own bonsai, look for plants with lots of branches. You will not need them all. However, you will have more opportunities to find the good ones.

• Proportion - Leaves, fruit and/or flowers should be in scale with the height of your tree. Large fruit or flowers can take away from the "tree look."

Bonsai Repot - When is the best time to repot your Bonsai

Potting is one of the most complicated subjects in bonsai but I can assure you that it's not rocket science and it's just a matter of paying attention. Many newcomers to the hobby make the mistake of putting a tree into a bonsai pot before it's ready. Honestly speaking, re-potting your Bonsai can make a big difference and is practically a must ''do'' if you want to see excellent results. If you are putting a tree into a training pot and are not going to root prune you can slip pot just about anything most of the time. This is simply placing the root ball in another pot which may or may not be larger. Root pruning and re-potting a root-bound plant will refresh it and cause it to put out fresh growth. An other important aspect of pruning is the timing, make sure that the roots are neither too dry or to wet (because the roots can start rotting). 

Once again you must know what type of tree you have. Some trees grow so fast they must be root pruned and re-potted yearly. Others may need it every other year or some exceptionally slow growers every 3-5 years. Generally, tropicals are best re-potted and root pruned during the hottest part of the year when they are actively growing. Re-pot most temperate climate woody trees just before bud break or when they first start showing fresh white root growth. Usually this is accomplished in the early spring. Some species can also be re-potted in late fall. When re-potting a finished bonsai, the general practice is to remove one half to two thirds of the old soil and prune one third to one half of the roots. The tree is then replaced in the same pot. 

You should prune foliage from the tree when you remove roots. Pruning a comparable amount will save stress on the tree. For example, if you remove 1/3 of the roots, top prune 1/3 of the foliage. It may be easier to prune the foliage while the tree is still in its pot. Have everything you need at hand before you begin, tools, soil, pot, screen and wire. Do not do this in the bright sun light or the roots may dry out. Once the root are dried out, the tree will die and all efforts will be lost. Please bear in mind to chose a good spot to do the work, as this is ab absolute fundamental aspect in the process of re-potting.

Pull the plant out of the pot and attempt to untangle the roots. Some people use a root comb or even a fork will do. The roots should be trimmed all around so the tree will fit back in the container with fresh potting mix. Try to spare as many of the small, fine roots as you can. These smaller roots are more efficient at taking up water that the tree will need after the pruning.

Place a shallow layer of fresh soil in the bottom of the pot and set the root ball on it. Pour more soil around the roots, tamping it into place. Check the soil for air pockets. It can sometimes be hard to get soil to fill all crevices between the roots. One method is to manipulate a chopstick or wooden skewer between the roots to make the soil spill down. If you did not cut back the foliage yet, do so now.

Water the tree thoroughly. This will settle the tree into the new soil. The tree should be anchored in the pot some way so that the wind does not move it around in the soil. The tree should be placed in a semi-shaded location for two weeks. Do not fertilize until you see new growth. There it is, a new look and strong growing Bonsai tree for many years to come.

Deciduous Bonsai Soil Mix

The primary components are Akadama, Pumice and Black Lava. We also added a bit of Horticultural Charcoal and Haydite. These components have been found over time to provide the best drainage, water retention, nutrient retention and air circulation possible to promote healthy bonsai.

- 1/2 Japanese Hard Akadama - is a clay like component that is excellent at retaining water and it breaks down allowing roots to grown in it's place.

- 1/4 Japanese Hyuga Pumice - is a volcanic byproduct that is excellent at retaining water and nutrients.

- 1/4 USA Black Lava Rock - is also a volcanic byproduct that is excellent at retaining moisture. Black lave also adds structure to the soil.

- Horticultural Charcoal -This was added to harbor beneficial bacteria and add humic acid in the soil.

- Haydite - (expanded shale) has the ability to absorb excess water then release it slowly back to the roots.

How Do I Use It?

This is "real" bonsai soil. Be sure your bonsai pot has holes in the bottom covered by bonsai mesh.

Each micro climate may require different amounts of water. On hot days you may need to water two times while around freezing you may need to water every few weeks. Push your finger 1" into the soil and feel for moisture. If it is dry, it is time to water.

2.5 Qt = @ 12 Cups

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

More Bonsai articles can be found here:

Please click here for more information on --> Chinese Penjing Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> The Origins of Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> The Art of Saikei Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> Japanese Tanuki Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> How to Water a Bonsai

Please click here for more information on --> Bonsai Healing Methods

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