World of Bonsai and Gardening

Showing posts with label bonsai roots. Show all posts

Chinese Elm Bonsai

This type of tree is the most common kind of bonsai and generally the first one most people will own. Without some information on how to look after them they are also usually the last one they will ever have after it struggles and then finally gives up. Bonsai in general symbolise peace, harmony, order of thoughts and balance. Known as 'The tree of harmony', the Elm symbolises inner strength, intuition and wisdom. A beautiful bonsai which signifies love, balance, calm and a peaceful energy. Here an illustration from the popular channel Bonsai Empire;

They are tough and able to survive the hazards of life indoors, difficult for any tree. Chinese Elm have very small leaves, rugged bark, fine branches and nice roots. Large trees have real charisma and the wow factor. Small ones can be bought cheaply. The tree is semi-decidious and will either keep or partially loose its leaves depending on the conditions in which is it kept. Branch protection is vital for Bonsai's to survive in the long run. Efficient would be tree raffia which can be found here --> Bonsai Tree Raffia

Positioning

The Chinese Elm is an easy bonsai to care for. It is not overly fussy about positioning but prefers a position with good natural daylight but out of direct sunlight, especially during the hottest summer months. We recommend a position away from radiators if possible. A window sill would be great but avoid south facing window-sills in mid summer.

Temperature

As an indoor bonsai the Chinese Elm is not fussy about temperature. If you are growing your bonsai outside, please place in a sheltered position in the garden. Outside this bonsai is semi-evergreen so you should expect the leaves to drop. For very cold nights (below freezing) we would recommend that you bring the bonsai into a shed, glasshouse or cool room. Once nightly lows begin approaching the 40 degree mark, it is time to bring your indoor bonsai inside. The ideal indoor location is on a window sill facing south. An east or west exposure is second best. A northern exposure will work, but will necessitate the use of "grow lights" to provide sufficient light to keep your bonsai healthy. Four to six hours of sunlight per day should suffice. If you can provide more, so much the better.

Watering

Aim to maintain an even level of moisture. The species is quite thirsty especially in hot or sunny conditions. Pot emersion watering can be done or the tree can be watered from above. It largely depending on when the tree was last re-potted and what mixture of organic or inorganic soil medium was used.

Pruning

Chinese Elms can be very vigorous growers which can resemble fluffy bushes in as little as a couple of weeks. the leaves group alternatively on straight shoots.If you seek simply to maintain the existing shape of a pre-made bonsai, cut the shoots back to the first set of new leaves after the shoot has got an inch or two in length. It also responds will to finger pinching of small shoots on an ongoing basis.

Growing Chinese Elm

We are frequently asked for bonsai seed kits but the reality is that thee kits are rather a disappointed. They frequently don't germinate and it is not the best way to propagate indoor bonsai trees. You are far better to purchase a bonsai, so you can enjoy growing it, and propagate new bonsai by taking cuttings. These are best taken in spring. Allow new shoots to grow 8-10cm and then prune with clean pruning scissors. Pop these cuttings into some fresh multipurpose compost in a small pot. Water them and then keep misting to maintain humidity.

Bonsai Healing Methods

It all starts when the tree is young and green believing that such healthy state is eternal. Soon you will realize that leafs start dropping off which is a first sign of some sort of deficiency.

We all know that most Bonsai Trees need a very specific amount of water to stay alive. Too little water can result in brown leaves and a dried, wilted trunk. Too much water can become trapped, rotting the roots of the tree and causing the leaves to turn brown. And we do know that different breeds of Bonsai Trees rely on different environments to stay alive.

However, the majority don’t flourish in direct sunlight. This doesn’t mean that they’re indoor plants. A lot of them do better outdoors. If you don’t know what type of Bonsai Tree you have, and what kind of sunlight it likes, keep it outdoors in indirect sunlight as a rule of thumb. It is often very possible that you Bonsai Tree simply needs more room to grow. If it’s been a long time since you’ve repotted your tree, consider doing it now. Most new bonsai tree owners are not equipped to grow it. Oftentimes, they see the plant, think, "Wow, how cool!" and bring it home, knowing nothing about how to take care of it. It's not difficult to grow a bonsai, but it does require that you understand the fundamentals about how to take care of them. You need to learn about bonsai if you want a happy, healthy plant. If you take the time to learn, your tree will bring you years of joy.

Identify the Problem

Kiyonal Healing and Grafting Cream for Bonsai

First, you should look closely at your Bonsai tree to identify what the problem is. Look for signs of insect infestation, such as wilt, mites, and webs (they may be difficult to spot, especially on an indoor tree.)

Next, check for signs of disease, over-watering, or under-watering. Foliage spots, wilt, browning

leaves, soft roots and/or trunk, or creases in the trunk are all signs of disease.

Signs of Under-watering:

If you look carefully at the trunk, you can see tiny creases that indicate that the plant is shriveling up.

If you stick a finger into the soil, it feels hard and dry. An extensive root system may indicate that the roots have been venturing far and wide, trying to find water.

Jav

Signs of Over-watering:

The roots appear to be rotting and the trunk is soft.
A shallow root system may be a sign that the roots have not had to search for water.
Root-rotting bacteria love moist environments and feed on dead roots. As roots die as a result from over-watering, bacteria spread.
You may see tiny white things in the soil. This may be a sign of fungus gnat larva, which like soil that is kept too moist for too long and also feed on the smallest, finest feeder roots.
The plant looks tired and no longer vibrant and healthy.
An excessive number of leaves turn yellow and fall off.
The smaller branches shrink and die away.
Eventually, the roots may not be sufficient to hold the plant up, and it may fall to one side.

As you can see, it's much easier to recognize the signs of too much water; a lack of water is much harder to detect.

Trim the Dead Spots

You’ll want to trim away parts of the tree that are dead to encourage future growth. Pinch away brown and/or wilted leaves from the stem, and use pruning shears to trim away any dead stems or branches (a branch is dead if it crumbles, or snaps away with ease). Treat the Tree with a Gentle Insecticide

If you’ve determined that your Bonsai is infested with pests or fungi, spray it with a light insecticide

or fungicide spray. Determine your tree’s symptoms before you choose the spray, to ensure that you buy the correct treatment. Lightly spray the foliage of the tree to ensure that every area is lightly coated in the chemical.

Moisture Level Checker (Click on image for more information)

Check the Moisture Levels

Before you doing anything else, check the moisture levels in the soil. To do this, stick your finger 1-2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, the browning leaves may be caused by dehydration. These next steps will help the plant to recover from this common problem.

Alternatively, you may want to try an electronic moisture-checking device. This will help you to get quick results and allow you to take swift action before mold kicks in. Remember that mold is can cause severe damage to your Bonsai. Once mold kicks in, it may be too late to recover your Bonsai from decay.

Take Care of the Roots

Remove the Bonsai Tree from the container and look closely at the root system. With pruning shears, cut away any dead or rotten roots. These roots may be preventing the Bonsai Tree from receiving the nutrients it needs. Cut them back to the root mass, and be careful not to cut any healthy roots.

Place the Bonsai in a Temporary Container

Let the Bonsai rest in a clean container filled with tepid water. While it’s resting, clean out its former container thoroughly, and begin preparing a new soil mix. The soil should be loose, and able to retain water efficiently. The best soil mixture will depend a lot upon the type of Bonsai Tree you have, so choose carefully. Create a mixture with a good fertilizer, and nutrient-rich potting soil. Place wire mesh around the drainage holes, and fill the container a third of the way with soil.

Let it Soak

Take the Bonsai out of the water, and place it in the center of your container. Fill it the rest of the way with soil. Afterward, place it in a large container of water (like a sink or a bucket) while it’s potted. The water should reach about 1 inch over the surface of the container. Let it sit in the water until the soil is free of air.

Remove the tree from the water, and allow the water to drain from the drainage holes.

A Warm, Shaded Area

Choose a well-ventilated, warm, and partially shaded location to place your Bonsai until it heals.

How to revive a Bonsai if dried out?

Imagine that you come back from a long vacation and discover that your Bonsai dried out. The first thing that comes to your mind is ''Oh dear, oh dear, so much effort, so many years wasted and now this!''

This is what you have to do: immediately submerge the bonsai, pot, and all, in a large container full of water. wait until the bubbles have dissipated, indicating the pot is already saturated. take out of the water and place the bonsai in a shaded spot of your garden. probably all the leaves will fall off after a few days which is the plant's way of concentrating its energy to survive and not wasting it on d replaceable leaves. in a few days, buds will appear. go to a bonsai store or a garden supply and buy a bottle of Superthrive a concentrated vitamin for plants. read the instructions on how to apply. Water the bonsai with a few drops of Superthrive in your watering can. in a month your bonsai should be fully recovered.

Japanese Av Star

Bonsai Repot - When is the best time to repot your Bonsai

Re-potting your Bonsai - Root pruning is one of the most important things because the roots may start rotting at some point.

Potting is one of the most complicated subjects in bonsai but I can assure you that it's not rocket science and it's just a matter of paying attention. Many newcomers to the hobby make the mistake of putting a tree into a bonsai pot before it's ready. Honestly speaking, re-potting your Bonsai can make a big difference and is practically a must ''do'' if you want to see excellent results. If you are putting a tree into a training pot and are not going to root prune you can slip pot just about anything most of the time. This is simply placing the root ball in another pot which may or may not be larger. Root pruning and re-potting a root-bound plant will refresh it and cause it to put out fresh growth. An other important aspect of pruning is the timing, make sure that the roots are neither too dry or to wet (because the roots can start rotting).

japanese horny wifes mature fumie tokikoshi

Once again you must know what type of tree you have. Some trees grow so fast they must be root pruned and re-potted yearly. Others may need it every other year or some exceptionally slow growers every 3-5 years. Generally, tropicals are best re-potted and root pruned during the hottest part of the year when they are actively growing. Re-pot most temperate climate woody trees just before bud break or when they first start showing fresh white root growth. Usually this is accomplished in the early spring. Some species can also be re-potted in late fall. When re-potting a finished bonsai, the general practice is to remove one half to two thirds of the old soil and prune one third to one half of the roots. The tree is then replaced in the same pot.

You should prune foliage from the tree when you remove roots. Pruning a comparable amount will save stress on the tree. For example, if you remove 1/3 of the roots, top prune 1/3 of the foliage. It may be easier to prune the foliage while the tree is still in its pot. Have everything you need at hand before you begin, tools, soil, pot, screen and wire. Do not do this in the bright sun light or the roots may dry out. Once the root are dried out, the tree will die and all efforts will be lost. Please bear in mind to chose a good spot to do the work, as this is ab absolute fundamental aspect in the process of re-potting.

Pull the plant out of the pot and attempt to untangle the roots. Some people use a root comb or even a fork will do. The roots should be trimmed all around so the tree will fit back in the container with fresh potting mix. Try to spare as many of the small, fine roots as you can. These smaller roots are more efficient at taking up water that the tree will need after the pruning.

Place a shallow layer of fresh soil in the bottom of the pot and set the root ball on it. Pour more soil around the roots, tamping it into place. Check the soil for air pockets. It can sometimes be hard to get soil to fill all crevices between the roots. One method is to manipulate a chopstick or wooden skewer between the roots to make the soil spill down. If you did not cut back the foliage yet, do so now.

Water the tree thoroughly. This will settle the tree into the new soil. The tree should be anchored in the pot some way so that the wind does not move it around in the soil. The tree should be placed in a semi-shaded location for two weeks. Do not fertilize until you see new growth. There it is, a new look and strong growing Bonsai tree for many years to come.

Deciduous Bonsai Soil Mix

The primary components are Akadama, Pumice and Black Lava. We also added a bit of Horticultural Charcoal and Haydite. These components have been found over time to provide the best drainage, water retention, nutrient retention and air circulation possible to promote healthy bonsai.

- 1/2 Japanese Hard Akadama - is a clay like component that is excellent at retaining water and it breaks down allowing roots to grown in it's place.

- 1/4 Japanese Hyuga Pumice - is a volcanic byproduct that is excellent at retaining water and nutrients.

- 1/4 USA Black Lava Rock - is also a volcanic byproduct that is excellent at retaining moisture. Black lave also adds structure to the soil.

- Horticultural Charcoal -This was added to harbor beneficial bacteria and add humic acid in the soil.

- Haydite - (expanded shale) has the ability to absorb excess water then release it slowly back to the roots.

How Do I Use It?

This is "real" bonsai soil. Be sure your bonsai pot has holes in the bottom covered by bonsai mesh.

Each micro climate may require different amounts of water. On hot days you may need to water two times while around freezing you may need to water every few weeks. Push your finger 1" into the soil and feel for moisture. If it is dry, it is time to water.

2.5 Qt = @ 12 Cups

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

The little bonsai

Growing and Caring for Bonsai Trees

Chinese Elm Bonsai

Bonsai Healing Methods

Bonsai Repot - When is the best time to repot your Bonsai