World of Bonsai and Gardening

Bonsai Styles Explained

Famous Japanese Blue Atlas Pine on display

Bonsai aesthetics are the aesthetic goals and characteristics of the Japanese tradition in the art of growing a miniature tree in a container. As you might already know, the world of Bonsai is very innovative in many aspects. You can either follow the traditional styles or the modern ones which date back less than a century. Many Japanese cultural characteristics, particularly the influence of Zen Buddhism and the expression of wabi or sabi, inform the bonsai tradition in that culture. As well, a lengthy catalog of conventional tree shapes and styles helps provide cohesion to the Japanese styling tradition. Several other cultures around the globe have adopted the Japanese approach to bonsai, and while some variations have begun to appear, most closely to the rules and design philosophies of the Japanese tradition. The aesthetics of penjing, a Chinese form of container-grown tree, are distinct from those of bonsai and are discussed elsewhere. The aesthetics of saikei, Japanese multi-tree landscapes in a container, are also distinct and are not described in this article.

A Japanese Black Pine in an informal style. John Naka's famous bonsai Goshin, shows some deadwood effects. A Blue Atlas Cedar (Cedrus libani var. atlantica) bonsai on display at the National Bonsai & Penjing Museum at the United States National Arboretum. Over centuries of practice, the Japanese bonsai aesthetic has encoded some important methods and aesthetic guidelines. Like the type of aesthetic rules that govern, for example, Western common practice period music, bonsai's guidelines help practitioners work within an established tradition with some assurance of success. Guidelines alone do not guarantee a successful result. Nevertheless, these design rules can rarely be broken without reducing the impact of the bonsai specimen.

A key design practice in bonsai is a set of commonly understood, named styles that describe canonical tree and setting designs. These well-known styles provide a convenient shorthand means for communicating about existing bonsai and for designing new ones. Bonsai styles describe several basic attributes of a bonsai, such as the angle and straightness of its trunk, its branch configuration, and the number of trees in the bonsai container.

Bonsai Pots - Traditional Japanese Ceramic Bonsai Pot

Traditional Japanese Ceramic Bonsai Pots

The system of styles serves many purposes, some practical, and some aesthetic. 3-1 In their simplest and most common application, styles provide a form of shorthand description for bonsai specimens. Predefined styles also aid the designer in making a development plan for a pre-bonsai tree. The untrained specimen may have characteristics that suggest or rule out certain styles. The designer can evaluate the pre-bonsai specimen against the catalog of accepted styles to determine what branches to remove or reshape, what foliage to remove or encourage, and what detailed shaping to apply to the trunk and branches.

As with all aesthetic rules or guidelines, the various accepted styles will guide a bonsai designer but are not completely deterministic. The species of the bonsai, the age of the tree when it began bonsai training, the tree's pre-existing shape and structure, and even the bonsai artist's training and preferences, strongly affect the shape of the resulting bonsai. These competing influences ensure that the style system acts mostly as a creative aid, not a dominating constraint, in producing a finished bonsai.

The main aim of bonsai aesthetic practices is to create miniature trees with an air of age in their overall shapes, proportions, and details. The quintessential bonsai is a single, dwarfed tree in a small container. It has the appearance of a mature tree, but not of a completely natural one. Instead, a designer or artist has manipulated the shape and surfaces of the tree to enhance or exaggerate the tree's apparent age, and also to give it a defined "front" from which it is meant to be viewed. Anyone questioning the effect of the bonsai designer's work can test the quality of the design by viewing it from the rear, where exactly the same trunk and branches will generally look awkward, cluttered, or otherwise unattractive.

Different styles and shapes of Bonsai trees

No trace of the artist

At the same time, the designer's touch must not be apparent to the viewer. If a branch is removed in shaping the tree, the scar will be placed at the "back" of the tree where it cannot be seen. Alternatively, the tree will not be shown until the scar has been covered by years of bark growing over it, or a stub of the branch will remain to be cleaned and shaped to look like it was broken by wind or lightning. Similarly, wiring should be removed or at least concealed when the bonsai is shown and must leave no permanent marks on the branch or bark.

Visual balance

Other guidelines address the balance of visual weight among the trunk, roots, foliage, and branches. The extensive catalog of recognized tree styles forms part of this set of guidelines. The term "balance" here may refer to either:

static visual balance, where careful application of symmetry leads to a stable and restful shape (like the formal upright, or Chokkan, style), or
dynamic visual balance, which may arise from an asymmetric shape or one that implies instability and movement (like the cascade, or Kengai, style).

Traditional Bonsai Shear and Brush Set

The trunk, roots, foliage, and branches are manipulated through a variety of techniques to meet the designer's goals of visual balance. Negative spaces (the "empty space" between solid elements like branches or foliage) are also shaped and proportioned to appear in balance. In almost all designs, the viewer can see completely through the tree's negative spaces to the background behind it. In this combination of positive and negative shapes, bonsai aesthetics overlap to a certain extent with the aesthetics of sculpture.

Proportion among elements

Another general guideline touches on the proportion of the bonsai's various elements. The most prized proportions mimic those of a full-grown tree as closely as possible. Slender branches with heavy leaves or needles that are out of proportion are avoided, as is a thin trunk with thick branches. One of the few exceptions to this guideline is that flowers and fruit (on trees that produce them) are not considered to be flawed if they appear too large for the tree.

Flexibility of the rules

One or more of the accepted rules of bonsai form can be bent or broken for a particular tree without destroying its fundamental aesthetic and artistic impact. In fact, going beyond the prescribed rules allows aesthetic growth in the bonsai art, as seen in many of the masterpieces created by Masahiko Kimura and Kunio Kobayashi. The following characteristics are desirable in many Japanese bonsai and other styles of container-grown trees, whatever the style: Gravitas

This is the trait which all of the remaining points of aesthetics seek to create. It is a sense of physical weight, the illusion of mass, the appearance of maturity or advanced age, and the elusive quality of dignity. Many of the formal rules of bonsai help the grower create a tree that expresses wabi or sabi, or portrays an aspect of mono no aware.

Miniaturization

By definition, a bonsai is a tree which is kept small enough to be container-grown while otherwise fostered to have a mature appearance. Bonsai can be classified according to size. Mame are ideally less than 10 cm (4 inches) tall and can be held in the palm of the hand. Shohin are about 25 cm (10 inches) tall, while other bonsai are larger and can not be easily moved. For both practical and aesthetic reasons, the guidelines outlined here are generally most effective and most often applied to larger bonsai, while the smallest specimens of bonsai may adhere to no rules other than "miniature tree" and "grown in a container".

Lignification

Cutting Back by Leslie Buck

This refers to enhancing the “woodyness” of a bonsai’s trunk and branches so that they have a

mature appearance. This typically means the bark surface is encouraged to become rough and dark-colored. In some cases, this aesthetic technique will vary, as in a birch tree bonsai attaining the white color and exfoliating bark of a mature specimen.

Asymmetry

Bonsai aesthetics discourage strict symmetry in branch and root placement. Radial symmetry is nearly always broken by the requirement for a clear "front", which exposes the tree's trunk and major branches. The left, right, and back sides will have more branches than the front. Left-right (bilateral) symmetry across the trunk is also discouraged, and designers work to alternate branches among the left, right, and back parts of the tree without ever placing two branches at the same height or extending two branches the same distance away from the trunk.

Leaf Reduction

Leaf reduction is related to the general miniaturization described above but is something that varies over the life cycle of a particular bonsai. For example, a bonsai’s leaves might be allowed to attain full size for many years to encourage vigor and growth of trunk, roots, and branches. It is usually desirable to attain a degree of leaf reduction before exhibiting a bonsai. Leaf reduction may be encouraged by pruning and is sometimes achieved by the total defoliation of a bonsai during one part of its growing season. Conifer needles are more difficult to reduce than other sorts of foliage.

Nebari

Also known as "buttressing", the nebari is the visible spread of roots above the growing medium at the base of a bonsai. Nebari helps a bonsai seem grounded and well-anchored and makes it look mature, akin to a full-sized tree.

Ramification

The ramification is the splitting of branches and twigs into smaller ones. It is encouraged by pruning and may be integrated with practices that promote leaf reduction.

Lime sulfur to bleach deadwood

Deadwood

Bonsai artists sometimes create or emphasize the appearance of dead wood on a bonsai tree, reflecting the occasional presence of dead branches or snags on full-sized trees. Two specific styles of deadwood are jin and shari. The presence of deadwood is not as common as most of the other points mentioned here but can be used very effectively on selected tree species and bonsai styles. See Deadwood Techniques for more details. Jin Seal is basically lime sulfur that provides an excellent solution to bleach deadwood on Bonsai.

Curvature

Trunk and branch curvature or contortion is an optional goal. Bonsai can achieve a sense of age while remaining straight and upright, but many bonsai rely upon the curvature of the trunk to build the illusion of weight and age. The curvature of the trunk that occurs between the roots and the lowest branch is known as tachiagari. Branches are also curved and re-curved to help them fit the designer's requirement for "positive space", and to separate small branches so that they do not cross or collide.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring, and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring, and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai gets sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describe how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

Japanese Garden Landscaping and Design

Japanese traditional garden with beautiful Koi fish pond

At the heart of a Japanese garden is harmony with nature. More than simply a landscape of trees and flowering shrubs, a Japanese garden provides a place of serenity and rest, filled with peaceful spots that lend themselves to meditation and contemplation Japanese garden design recreates the natural landscapes in small spaces creating gorgeous reflections of the natural surroundings.

All elements of oriental garden design are interconnected blending function and aesthetic appeal in harmony and balance. Beautiful Japanese garden design ideas give great inspiration to Feng Shui homes and yard landscaping ideas, adding peaceful small spaces where you can relax and rejuvenate.

A few oriental garden design tips will help integrate the most important concepts into your backyard designs and create beautiful and tranquil outdoor living spaces to enjoy every season. The garden design should be right for the location, harmoniously integrating natural features into beautiful yard landscaping ideas in Japanese style. Your garden design starts from having nothing. Then you add Japanese garden rocks, trees, and shrubs. Uniqueness and mature beauty add charm and character to oriental garden design.

Japanese garden designs are a gorgeous combination of thick green moss, miniature trees, rocks, sand and water features, Japanese stone lanterns, and Tsukubai water fountains placed in harmony to add graceful elegance to yard landscaping. The peaceful atmosphere of an oriental garden which celebrates your personality and connects you to nature is the most important thing to achieve.

Basic oriental garden design styles

There are three basic Japanese garden design styles that differ by setting and purpose. Hill and Pond's oriental garden design style is classy and traditional. These garden designs are inspired by Chinese gardens. A pond or a space, that symbolizes a pond and is filled with raked gravel, and a hill represents mountains and lakes. Flat garden designs include open flat spaces in front of temples and places for ceremonies. This formal style represents a seashore area and is frequently used in courtyards. Tea Garden designs are functional and informal, blending an aesthetic appeal of rustic style into beautiful and elegant spaces with gates and ponds.

Elements of Japanese garden design

Rocks in Japanese garden design are the main elements. The stones placement creates balance and

The Japanese Art of Landscaping 1974

Feng Shui outdoor spaces with harmony and beauty. The basic stones are the tall upright stone, the low upright stone, the curved stone, the reclining stone, and the horizontal stone. Two almost identical stones can be set together as male and female, but the use of them in threes, fives, and sevens is more frequent. Stones can be placed as sculptures, set against a background in a two-dimensional way, or used as stepping stones or a bridge.

When used as stepping stones they should be between one and three inches above the soil, yet solid underfoot. They can be put in straight lines, offset for left foot, right foot or set in sets of twos, threes, fours, or fives. The pathway stands for the passage through life, and even particular stones by the path may have meaning. A much wider stone placed across the path tells us to put two feet here, stopping to enjoy the view. There are numerous stones for specific places that give character to unique, meaningful and mysterious Japanese garden design.

Water features play an important part in Japanese garden design. Water can be represented with a raked gravel or sand area instead of water. A rushing stream can be represented by placing flat river pebbles closely together. The flow of water, its sounds and looks, brings to mind the continual passage of time. Bridges crossing the water streams are beautiful landscaping ideas that complement philosophical Japanese garden designs. Bridges denote a journey, just as pathways do. Bridges are the symbolic pass from one world into another, a constant theme in Japanese art and garden design.

Japanese garden designs for tranquility, simplicity and harmony

A typical gate entry to traditional Japanese garden in Kyoto

Ladies in Kimono strolling through a Japanese Garden on a Sunday afternoon

Garden Temple in Osaka, Japan

Japanese garden plants and flowers

Rocks in Japanese garden represent what remains unchanged, while trees, shrubs and perennial flowers represent the passing of seasons. A few native plants are present in Japanese gardens. Pines, cherries and bamboo are symbols of oriental garden design, but the use native plants of your locality give unique character to your garden design and yard landscaping ideas, inspired by traditional Japanese garden style. Japanese flower gardens are works of art, if done well. The key to designing your own Japanese flower gardens is to keep it simple and try to imitate nature in the layout. When dealing with Asian plants, it takes a bit of research to select the best Japanese garden plants for your own garden, but it isn’t difficult. Having a variety of plants for a Japanese garden is important. A visit to Japan (even if its just a short visit) it will never be complete without visiting the beautiful gardens of Japan. It's a true must see! For beginners that arent familiar to the world of Japanese garden designs, I would suggest to start exploring the gardens in Kyoto. To view all aspects of Japanese gardens it takes time and the wide distances between cities can be inconvenient. However, the best way for visitors to travel economically is a Japan Rail Pass. A JR pass allows visitors to save up to 60% in cost of traveling between cities and it applies to all Japan Rail Trains and Buses. For more information on traveling through Japan with JR Pass ---> please click here.

Japanese garden decorations

Stone lanterns are not important elements of Japanese garden design. Lanterns, stupas, and basins are just landscaping ideas to complement an oriental garden design and add points of visual interest to small spaces. A water fountain and an art piece can be added to an oriental garden. Framing it with stones, plants, and flowers creates a very special centerpiece that improves existing Japanese garden design. There are plenty of lanterns in different shapes and forms. Popular ones are Kanjuji which are very simple in form. Many of us like three-story lanterns for example Sanjuno-To that are available in many landscaping stores.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. A fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

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Traditional Koi Fish Pond during Winter in Nagano Prefecture

Suizenji Kōen is an interesting and much visited venue

Suizen-ji Jōju-en (水前寺成趣園) is a beautiful garden located in Kumamoto, Japan

Nishimuraya Honkan is a seventh-generation ryokan boasting private gardens

How to Grow Japanese Maples from Seed

It looks easier as it is, in fact growing Japanese maples from seed isn't an easy task. It is only possible if you are willing to invest time and some patience. In other words, it's not mission impossible if you follow these steps:

The ASIAN maple species method

1. Vine maple, striped maple, Amur maple, and paperbark maple are all tough to germinate and require extra attention. This applies to most other species native to Asia, as well as mountain maples and rocky mountain maples. All of the seeds in this category drop in autumn or winter. Left alone in the soil, they can take years to germinate.

Shiho Fumie Tokikoshi Japanese AV Idol Actress

2. Treat the outer hull. Many of these species have an extremely hard hull (pericarp). Growers often "scarify" the hull to greatly improve germination rates. You may use any of these methods: Rub the base of the seed (opposite the wing) against a nail file or sandpaper.

Stop as soon as you break through the hull, barely nicking the seed coat underneath.
Soak the seeds in household-strength hydrogen peroxide for several hours, then rinse well.
Soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours

3. Store in a warm room. The US Forest Service recommends keeping the seeds at 20–30ºC (68–86ºF) for 30–60 days. These seeds have not been studied as thoroughly as those of other species, so exact guidelines for each species are not available.

Now, if you've been waiting 60 days, it's half the way to success. Don't give up at this point and follow the remaining steps.

4. Cold stratify for 90–180 days. Transfer the seeds to a plastic, zip-locked bag in the refrigerator, with a small handful of peat moss or other growing material. Check back every couple of weeks to look for signs of mold, drying, or sprouting.

Rocky mountain seeds (Acer glabrum) usually take the full 180 days to germinate. Other species can take as few as 90, but they are unpredictable. Don't expect every seed to sprout. Germination rates as low as 20% are common for these species.

5. Plant the seeds. You may start the germinated seeds on an indoor seedling tray, or plant them outside if the last frost has passed. Plant them 0.6 to 2.5cm (¼ to 1 inch) beneath the soil surface.

Water occasionally but deeply, not letting the soil stay dry for long. For more specific information, look up your exact maple species.

If this method doesn't work for you. You may want to try a different method which is the direct germinating in the soil method. These are the five steps:

The direct planting (germinating) in the soil method

1. Collect seeds in late spring or early summer. Silver maples and some red maples (but not Japanese red maples) will drop their seeds early in the growing season. These species do not go dormant, and there is no need for any special treatments.

2. Plant immediately. Seeds of this type will die if they dry out in storage. Plant shortly after you collect them. They should germinate quickly.

3. Plant on moist ground. Place the seeds on the moist ground with plenty of leaf litter and other organic material. As long as the soil doesn't dry out, the seeds will require no maintenance.

4. Plant in sun or partial shade. Silver maples grow poorly in the shade. Red maples can handle shade for 3–5 years but may have trouble growing if they remain under the canopy past that point.

5. Leave bare seedbeds undisturbed (optional). If some of the seeds fail to germinate, they will often sprout the following year. These are usually a minority of the seeds, but if you haven't had much success it could be worth leaving the area untended for a second season.

If very few of the seeds germinate, and the climate has been fairly typical, the seeds most likely died in storage. Plant a new batch next year rather than wait.

The most common method is stratification

1. Try this for most maple seeds. Sugar maples, bigleaf maples, boxelder maples, Japanese maples, Norway maples, and some red maples lie dormant over the winter, then germinate as soon as temperatures warm. The cold stratification approach produces very high germination rates in these species.

All of these species drop their seeds in autumn or early winter. If your red maple trees drop their seeds in spring or early summer, try germinating them in the soil instead.

If you're going to plant the seeds outdoors, start this method 90–120 days before the last winter frost.

2. Fill a plastic bag with growing material. Place a handful of peat moss, vermiculite, or germination paper in a small, plastic, zip-locked bag. For best results, use sterile material and handle it with disposable gloves to avoid introducing fungus.

Tiny "snack-sized" bags work best. Larger bags trap more air with the seeds, which can lead to fungal problems.

Red maple seeds are sensitive to acidity. For this species, choose vermiculite (a neutral or basic substance) rather than peat moss (acidic).

3. Add a little water. Add a couple drops of water to the growing material to dampen the material slightly. If you see standing water, or if you can squeeze out water from the material, it is too wet.

4. Optionally, you can apply a little fungicide. Fungicide can prevent mold from destroying your seeds, but it is not always necessary and may damage the plant if overused. Add only in tiny quantities, following the manufacturer's instructions. Some growers rinse the seeds in very diluted bleach solutions instead.

5. Add the seeds and close the bag. Place your seeds in the bag. Starting from the base, roll the bag to expel most of the air. Zip it closed.

6. Store in the refrigerator. Now it's time to "stratify" the seeds, or expose them to temperatures that trigger germination. For most species, the ideal temperature is usually around 1–5ºC (33.8–41ºF). The crisper drawer of a refrigerator is usually about this temperature.

Ideally, use a thermometer to confirm the correct temperature. Some seeds may fail to germinate if the temperature is just a couple degrees off.

If possible, keep boxelder and Norway maple seeds at exactly 5ºC (41ºF), and red maple seeds at exactly 3ºC (37.4ºF). Other species are not as picky.

7. Leave them for 40–120 days, checking every week or 2. Most of these species take 90–120 days to germinate, but the bigleaf maple and a few others can sprout in as few as 40. Every week or 2, check on the bag and make adjustments as needed: If you notice condensation, pick up the bag and gently tap it to knock the water droplets off. Lay the bag back down on the opposite side, so the wet seeds have a chance to dry off.

If the growing material has dried out, add a drop or 2 of water.
If you notice any mold or black spots, remove the affected seed and throw it away. (If the whole batch is molding, try a little fungicide.)
If the seeds have begun to sprout, remove them from the refrigerator.

8. Plant the seeds. Once the seeds have germinated, plant them 0.6–1.2cm (¼–½ inch) under moist soil. Most maples do well in partial shade but look up the exact species if possible for more info on planting.

To increase the odds of survival, start the seedlings in an indoor seed tray instead. Fill the tray with 7.6–10 cm (3–4 inches) of well-draining potting soil, or an even mix of peat moss, rotted compost, vermiculite, and coarse sand. Water whenever the soil becomes completely dry. Transfer to planter pots once the second set of leaves appears.

World of Pumpkin

pumpkins are great winter crops. pumpkings are more than halloween

Isn't it amazing, pumpkin is such an incredible cultivar of winter squash that has impressed generations since it originated from Mexico. Pumpkins are one of the oldest domesticated plants, having been used as early as 7,500 to 5,000 BC. Pumpkins are a warm-weather crop that is usually planted in early July. The specific conditions necessary for growing pumpkins require that soil temperatures 8 centimeters (3 in) deep are at least 15.5 °C (60 °F) and that the soil holds water well. Pumpkin crops may suffer if there is a lack of water or because of cold temperatures (in this case, below 18 °C or 65 °F). Soil that is sandy with poor water retention or poorly drained soils that become waterlogged after heavy rain are both detrimental. Pumpkins are, however, rather hardy, and even if many leaves and portions of the vine

are removed or damaged, the plant can very quickly re-grow secondary vines to replace what was removed. Pumpkins produce both a male and female flower, with fertilization usually effected by bees. In America, pumpkins have historically been pollinated by the native squash bee, Peponapis pruinosa, but that bee has declined, probably partly due to pesticide sensitivity. Ground-based bees, such as squash bees and the eastern bumblebee, are better suited to manage the larger pollen particles that pumpkins create, but today most commercial plantings are pollinated by hives of honeybees, which also allows the production and sale of honey that the bees produce from the pumpkin pollen.

Fall is officially underway which means that perfect round, bright orange pumpkins are available for picking from the pumpkin patch. Picking out the perfect pumpkin (or pumpkins!) for your family is a fun event in itself. But what do you plan to do with them once you get them home? Here are some fun ideas and facts for ways you can use your freshly picked pumpkins!

Fumie Tokikoshi Shiho Mature Japanese Mom

Decorate your home

If you’re feeling festive, pumpkins make great fall decorations both inside and outside of the home. Outside, people will often pair them with scarecrows, haystacks, and decorative corn stalks to create that perfect fall look. Pumpkins also make great centerpieces and they also look great when displayed throughout the home.

Make beautiful place settings

Mini-pumpkins make a great place-setting accessory at fall events and attendees can take them home to enjoy! Pumpkins can also be used instead of a seating card at a fall-inspired event, such as a wedding. Simply write each guest’s name on a pumpkin with their table number. You can also paint the pumpkins to make them stand out, or use them as-is since pumpkins are gorgeous on their own.

Cook delicious pumpkin treats

Fall also means delicious pumpkin recipes! There’s pumpkin pie, pumpkin bread, pumpkin soup, and more. Yum! Why not bake something from scratch this year? Pumpkin tastes delicious in a variety of recipes, both savory and sweet. In addition to beta carotene, pumpkins offer vitamin C, vitamin E, iron, and folate, all of which strengthen your immune system. More pumpkin in your diet can help your immune cells work better to ward off germs and speed healing when you get a wound.

The benefits of pumpkin skin

Pumpkin skin is specifically high in beta-carotene which converts into Vitamin A in the body. This powerful antioxidant can help prevent sun damage when consumed regularly so you can keep that skin glowing all day long.

Carve your pumpkin

A favorite family Halloween activity is turning a pumpkin into a jack-o-lantern. Create your own designs or if you aren’t too artistic, you can buy pumpkin carving kits. You can also use cookie cutters as a guide to cut different shapes into the pumpkin. Don’t be afraid to use your creativity, but if small children are involved with the project, it is best to have an adult do the cutting.

Pumpkin seed oil and its health benefits

You may think of pumpkin as a festive fall decoration or the ingredient for the perfect pie, but pumpkin has other uses. Pumpkin seed oil, for example, has certain health benefits. Pumpkin seed oil is said to help promote urinary health and heart health. It’s full of vitamins and anti-inflammatory agents, along with linoleic and oleic acid. Here’s what you need to know about this fruit’s potential health benefits.

Pumpkin seed oil has been linked to positive effects on hair growth, especially in men. The link to study can be found here. The study found that men who took 400 milligrams of pumpkin seed oil every day for 24 weeks actually had 40 percent more hair growth than men in the placebo group. No adverse effects were found.

You may know that saturated fats aren’t good for healthy hearts. But it can still be confusing to know which fats are OK to eat. Pumpkin seed oil is actually an unsaturated fat, meaning it’s the “good” kind of fat. Unsaturated fats like pumpkin seed oil can actually promote a healthy heart.

Pumpkin seed oil, along with palmetto oil, has shown promising results as an alternative therapy for benign prostate hypertrophy (BPH). BPH is a common condition where the prostate becomes enlarged. This can be extremely painful and block the flow of urine. A study of Korean men with BPH found that pumpkin seed oil may act as an effective alternative medicine with no adverse reactions. Participants in the study saw an improvement in symptoms, including better urinary flow. Researchers found that optimal results occurred when pumpkin seed oil was paired with palmetto oil. The study can be found here.

Lastly, pumpkin seed oil was found to help relieve some of the symptoms of menopause. This included a decrease in hot flashes, joint pain, and headaches. The women taking pumpkin seed oil also had an increase in their HDL levels, which is the “good” cholesterol.

pumpkin sales of halloween items and costumes

Grow your giant pumpkin

Pumpkins can reach truly massive proportions. The Guinness World Record for the heaviest pumpkin of all time belongs to a German specimen that weighed 2644.6 pounds in 2016. If you're looking for a gourd that rivals the world's biggest, you won't find it at the supermarket. The best way to get your hands on a giant pumpkin is by growing it yourself and if you start now, it may be ready by Halloween 2022.

A monster pumpkin starts with a tiny seed, but it can't be any pumpkin seed. Modern Farmer recommends planting Dill's Atlantic Giant the variety that has produced nearly all the record-smashing pumpkins of recent decades. If grown under ideal conditions, these seeds can produce pumpkins between 300 and 500 pounds.

Start preparing to grow your giant pumpkin in the fall. In your garden, till a 10-foot-diameter bed that receives at least eight hours of sunlight per day. Spread six inches of composted manure over the soil and shape it into a low, wide mound. Cover the bed with straw mulch or a cover crop until you're ready to plant your pumpkins in a few months.

In late winter or early spring, roughly a month before the last frost of winter germinate your pumpkin seeds in indoor pots. Air temperatures should fall between 65°F to 75°F and soil temperatures should be 70°F to 90°F. Once your seedling has sprouted a few leaves, plant it in the prepared bed in your garden. If you have more than one seedling, space them out at least 10 feet apart. Covering the area around the sprout with plastic in the early spring can protect it from cold weather and encourage early growth.

Moisture, sun, and nutrients are essential to cultivating large pumpkins. The soil should always be moist, and the patch should be located in a bright, sunny spot without any shade. A weekly feeding of nutrients will help it gain a lot of bulk in a short amount of time. Wind, pests, and weeds pose a threat to pumpkins, so monitor the conditions around the plot and install a fence or use insecticides and fungicides if necessary.

Though it may seem counterintuitive, it's important to pluck flower buds from your vine when it's first starting to grow. This allows the leaves to grow big enough to collect energy for one, giant pumpkin instead of several tiny ones. When your vine is about 10 feet long, leave any budding flowers alone for a few weeks. The biggest fruit at the end of this period will be your giant pumpkin, and the rest can be pruned.

Giant pumpkins have unique needs to keep in mind. They're prone to rot, and a bed of sand or a sheet of wood or cardboard beneath them offers protection from moisture and insects. The skin of a 300-pound pumpkin is stretched to its limit, and erecting a shade cloth over the fruit keeps its exterior flexible as it expands. Also, make sure to prune any rootlets preventing the vine near the pumpkin from lifting off the ground as it grows larger. Branching vines that produce leaves promote growth, but vines that are longer than eight feet may consume more energy than they harness for the pumpkin and should be removed.

With some luck and hard work, your giant pumpkin should be ready to harvest by the end of fall. The crop won't make very good pumpkin pie, but it might win you a blue ribbon at your local fair. Here are more uses for pumpkins of any size this Halloween season. Good Luck!

Some exciting pumpkin products such as caps, sleeveless shirts, trousers, blankets etc. can be found in this link. Pumpkin products

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