World of Bonsai and Gardening

Showing posts with label bonsai for beginners. Show all posts

Chinese Elm Bonsai

This type of tree is the most common kind of bonsai and generally the first one most people will own. Without some information on how to look after them they are also usually the last one they will ever have after it struggles and then finally gives up. Bonsai in general symbolise peace, harmony, order of thoughts and balance. Known as 'The tree of harmony', the Elm symbolises inner strength, intuition and wisdom. A beautiful bonsai which signifies love, balance, calm and a peaceful energy. Here an illustration from the popular channel Bonsai Empire;

They are tough and able to survive the hazards of life indoors, difficult for any tree. Chinese Elm have very small leaves, rugged bark, fine branches and nice roots. Large trees have real charisma and the wow factor. Small ones can be bought cheaply. The tree is semi-decidious and will either keep or partially loose its leaves depending on the conditions in which is it kept. Branch protection is vital for Bonsai's to survive in the long run. Efficient would be tree raffia which can be found here --> Bonsai Tree Raffia

Positioning

The Chinese Elm is an easy bonsai to care for. It is not overly fussy about positioning but prefers a position with good natural daylight but out of direct sunlight, especially during the hottest summer months. We recommend a position away from radiators if possible. A window sill would be great but avoid south facing window-sills in mid summer.

Temperature

As an indoor bonsai the Chinese Elm is not fussy about temperature. If you are growing your bonsai outside, please place in a sheltered position in the garden. Outside this bonsai is semi-evergreen so you should expect the leaves to drop. For very cold nights (below freezing) we would recommend that you bring the bonsai into a shed, glasshouse or cool room. Once nightly lows begin approaching the 40 degree mark, it is time to bring your indoor bonsai inside. The ideal indoor location is on a window sill facing south. An east or west exposure is second best. A northern exposure will work, but will necessitate the use of "grow lights" to provide sufficient light to keep your bonsai healthy. Four to six hours of sunlight per day should suffice. If you can provide more, so much the better.

Watering

Aim to maintain an even level of moisture. The species is quite thirsty especially in hot or sunny conditions. Pot emersion watering can be done or the tree can be watered from above. It largely depending on when the tree was last re-potted and what mixture of organic or inorganic soil medium was used.

Pruning

Chinese Elms can be very vigorous growers which can resemble fluffy bushes in as little as a couple of weeks. the leaves group alternatively on straight shoots.If you seek simply to maintain the existing shape of a pre-made bonsai, cut the shoots back to the first set of new leaves after the shoot has got an inch or two in length. It also responds will to finger pinching of small shoots on an ongoing basis.

Growing Chinese Elm

We are frequently asked for bonsai seed kits but the reality is that thee kits are rather a disappointed. They frequently don't germinate and it is not the best way to propagate indoor bonsai trees. You are far better to purchase a bonsai, so you can enjoy growing it, and propagate new bonsai by taking cuttings. These are best taken in spring. Allow new shoots to grow 8-10cm and then prune with clean pruning scissors. Pop these cuttings into some fresh multipurpose compost in a small pot. Water them and then keep misting to maintain humidity.

Bonsai Styles Explained

Famous Japanese Blue Atlas Pine on display

Bonsai aesthetics are the aesthetic goals and characteristics of the Japanese tradition in the art of growing a miniature tree in a container. As you might already know, the world of Bonsai is very innovative in many aspects. You can either follow the traditional styles or the modern ones which date back less than a century. Many Japanese cultural characteristics, particularly the influence of Zen Buddhism and the expression of wabi or sabi, inform the bonsai tradition in that culture. As well, a lengthy catalog of conventional tree shapes and styles helps provide cohesion to the Japanese styling tradition. Several other cultures around the globe have adopted the Japanese approach to bonsai, and while some variations have begun to appear, most closely to the rules and design philosophies of the Japanese tradition. The aesthetics of penjing, a Chinese form of container-grown tree, are distinct from those of bonsai and are discussed elsewhere. The aesthetics of saikei, Japanese multi-tree landscapes in a container, are also distinct and are not described in this article.

A Japanese Black Pine in an informal style. John Naka's famous bonsai Goshin, shows some deadwood effects. A Blue Atlas Cedar (Cedrus libani var. atlantica) bonsai on display at the National Bonsai & Penjing Museum at the United States National Arboretum. Over centuries of practice, the Japanese bonsai aesthetic has encoded some important methods and aesthetic guidelines. Like the type of aesthetic rules that govern, for example, Western common practice period music, bonsai's guidelines help practitioners work within an established tradition with some assurance of success. Guidelines alone do not guarantee a successful result. Nevertheless, these design rules can rarely be broken without reducing the impact of the bonsai specimen.

A key design practice in bonsai is a set of commonly understood, named styles that describe canonical tree and setting designs. These well-known styles provide a convenient shorthand means for communicating about existing bonsai and for designing new ones. Bonsai styles describe several basic attributes of a bonsai, such as the angle and straightness of its trunk, its branch configuration, and the number of trees in the bonsai container.

Bonsai Pots - Traditional Japanese Ceramic Bonsai Pot

Traditional Japanese Ceramic Bonsai Pots

The system of styles serves many purposes, some practical, and some aesthetic. 3-1 In their simplest and most common application, styles provide a form of shorthand description for bonsai specimens. Predefined styles also aid the designer in making a development plan for a pre-bonsai tree. The untrained specimen may have characteristics that suggest or rule out certain styles. The designer can evaluate the pre-bonsai specimen against the catalog of accepted styles to determine what branches to remove or reshape, what foliage to remove or encourage, and what detailed shaping to apply to the trunk and branches.

As with all aesthetic rules or guidelines, the various accepted styles will guide a bonsai designer but are not completely deterministic. The species of the bonsai, the age of the tree when it began bonsai training, the tree's pre-existing shape and structure, and even the bonsai artist's training and preferences, strongly affect the shape of the resulting bonsai. These competing influences ensure that the style system acts mostly as a creative aid, not a dominating constraint, in producing a finished bonsai.

The main aim of bonsai aesthetic practices is to create miniature trees with an air of age in their overall shapes, proportions, and details. The quintessential bonsai is a single, dwarfed tree in a small container. It has the appearance of a mature tree, but not of a completely natural one. Instead, a designer or artist has manipulated the shape and surfaces of the tree to enhance or exaggerate the tree's apparent age, and also to give it a defined "front" from which it is meant to be viewed. Anyone questioning the effect of the bonsai designer's work can test the quality of the design by viewing it from the rear, where exactly the same trunk and branches will generally look awkward, cluttered, or otherwise unattractive.

Different styles and shapes of Bonsai trees

No trace of the artist

At the same time, the designer's touch must not be apparent to the viewer. If a branch is removed in shaping the tree, the scar will be placed at the "back" of the tree where it cannot be seen. Alternatively, the tree will not be shown until the scar has been covered by years of bark growing over it, or a stub of the branch will remain to be cleaned and shaped to look like it was broken by wind or lightning. Similarly, wiring should be removed or at least concealed when the bonsai is shown and must leave no permanent marks on the branch or bark.

Visual balance

Other guidelines address the balance of visual weight among the trunk, roots, foliage, and branches. The extensive catalog of recognized tree styles forms part of this set of guidelines. The term "balance" here may refer to either:

static visual balance, where careful application of symmetry leads to a stable and restful shape (like the formal upright, or Chokkan, style), or
dynamic visual balance, which may arise from an asymmetric shape or one that implies instability and movement (like the cascade, or Kengai, style).

Traditional Bonsai Shear and Brush Set

The trunk, roots, foliage, and branches are manipulated through a variety of techniques to meet the designer's goals of visual balance. Negative spaces (the "empty space" between solid elements like branches or foliage) are also shaped and proportioned to appear in balance. In almost all designs, the viewer can see completely through the tree's negative spaces to the background behind it. In this combination of positive and negative shapes, bonsai aesthetics overlap to a certain extent with the aesthetics of sculpture.

Proportion among elements

Another general guideline touches on the proportion of the bonsai's various elements. The most prized proportions mimic those of a full-grown tree as closely as possible. Slender branches with heavy leaves or needles that are out of proportion are avoided, as is a thin trunk with thick branches. One of the few exceptions to this guideline is that flowers and fruit (on trees that produce them) are not considered to be flawed if they appear too large for the tree.

Flexibility of the rules

One or more of the accepted rules of bonsai form can be bent or broken for a particular tree without destroying its fundamental aesthetic and artistic impact. In fact, going beyond the prescribed rules allows aesthetic growth in the bonsai art, as seen in many of the masterpieces created by Masahiko Kimura and Kunio Kobayashi. The following characteristics are desirable in many Japanese bonsai and other styles of container-grown trees, whatever the style: Gravitas

This is the trait which all of the remaining points of aesthetics seek to create. It is a sense of physical weight, the illusion of mass, the appearance of maturity or advanced age, and the elusive quality of dignity. Many of the formal rules of bonsai help the grower create a tree that expresses wabi or sabi, or portrays an aspect of mono no aware.

Miniaturization

By definition, a bonsai is a tree which is kept small enough to be container-grown while otherwise fostered to have a mature appearance. Bonsai can be classified according to size. Mame are ideally less than 10 cm (4 inches) tall and can be held in the palm of the hand. Shohin are about 25 cm (10 inches) tall, while other bonsai are larger and can not be easily moved. For both practical and aesthetic reasons, the guidelines outlined here are generally most effective and most often applied to larger bonsai, while the smallest specimens of bonsai may adhere to no rules other than "miniature tree" and "grown in a container".

Lignification

Cutting Back by Leslie Buck

This refers to enhancing the “woodyness” of a bonsai’s trunk and branches so that they have a

mature appearance. This typically means the bark surface is encouraged to become rough and dark-colored. In some cases, this aesthetic technique will vary, as in a birch tree bonsai attaining the white color and exfoliating bark of a mature specimen.

Asymmetry

Bonsai aesthetics discourage strict symmetry in branch and root placement. Radial symmetry is nearly always broken by the requirement for a clear "front", which exposes the tree's trunk and major branches. The left, right, and back sides will have more branches than the front. Left-right (bilateral) symmetry across the trunk is also discouraged, and designers work to alternate branches among the left, right, and back parts of the tree without ever placing two branches at the same height or extending two branches the same distance away from the trunk.

Leaf Reduction

Leaf reduction is related to the general miniaturization described above but is something that varies over the life cycle of a particular bonsai. For example, a bonsai’s leaves might be allowed to attain full size for many years to encourage vigor and growth of trunk, roots, and branches. It is usually desirable to attain a degree of leaf reduction before exhibiting a bonsai. Leaf reduction may be encouraged by pruning and is sometimes achieved by the total defoliation of a bonsai during one part of its growing season. Conifer needles are more difficult to reduce than other sorts of foliage.

Nebari

Also known as "buttressing", the nebari is the visible spread of roots above the growing medium at the base of a bonsai. Nebari helps a bonsai seem grounded and well-anchored and makes it look mature, akin to a full-sized tree.

Ramification

The ramification is the splitting of branches and twigs into smaller ones. It is encouraged by pruning and may be integrated with practices that promote leaf reduction.

Lime sulfur to bleach deadwood

Deadwood

Bonsai artists sometimes create or emphasize the appearance of dead wood on a bonsai tree, reflecting the occasional presence of dead branches or snags on full-sized trees. Two specific styles of deadwood are jin and shari. The presence of deadwood is not as common as most of the other points mentioned here but can be used very effectively on selected tree species and bonsai styles. See Deadwood Techniques for more details. Jin Seal is basically lime sulfur that provides an excellent solution to bleach deadwood on Bonsai.

Curvature

Trunk and branch curvature or contortion is an optional goal. Bonsai can achieve a sense of age while remaining straight and upright, but many bonsai rely upon the curvature of the trunk to build the illusion of weight and age. The curvature of the trunk that occurs between the roots and the lowest branch is known as tachiagari. Branches are also curved and re-curved to help them fit the designer's requirement for "positive space", and to separate small branches so that they do not cross or collide.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring, and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describe how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Watering Bonsai - How to water a Bonsai

Bonsai, as with nearly all other types of cultivated plants, require moisture at their roots to survive. Without a continual source of moisture, the tree is unable to continue its life process, initially losing leaves, then branches, and finally, the entire tree can die. Never doubt that the quickest way of killing a bonsai is to allow the compost to dry out completely.

However, though the effects of under-watering are immediate, over-watering a bonsai also causes ill-health in trees. The effects of continual over-watering take much longer to become noticeable and can often be difficult to diagnose until parts of the Bonsai start to rot away. Established plants and trees growing in the ground have the ability to 'adjust' to their habitat and the quantity of water that is available to them. If there is not enough water available to the root system, the roots will spread out into the soil until enough moisture can be reliably acquired. Thus plants growing in relatively dry areas will have far-reaching root systems that will continue to spread out until a reliable source of moisture can be found. On the other hand, trees growing in damp conditions where moisture is permanently available in the upper levels of the soil will tend to have shallow root systems as they have easy access to moisture.

In the confines of a pot, a bonsai loses this ability to self-regulate its exposure to moisture. It is unable to govern how much or how little water it accesses. The compost in a bonsai pot is also far less stable than soil in the ground, its ability to dry out is greatly increased and it is greatly affected by outside influences such as the weather and the surrounding ambient temperature. Correctly watering your bonsai is a skill itself and is not as straightforward as one might expect when first starting out. It is often said in Japan that it takes 3 years to learn to water correctly. It can sometimes take three years of tree losses before a bonsai enthusiast realizes that it is his/her watering regime that might be the cause!

Fumie Tokikoshi Asako Kawasaki Japanese mature moms

Bonsai Watering System

I have found this system very interesting as it can be done passively without neglecting the Bonsai. Especially if you have more than one Bonsai, this type of watering system is very useful. We all know that Bonsai needs special attention. Blumats provide that but the regular ones are too long for most Bonsai containers. This one solves that problem. It can save an immense amount of watering time because this can automatically water the bonsai without needing to submerge it. In very dry areas like here in Colorado, it helps Bonsai survive those very dry days when their owners may be distracted or gone and not paying as much attention as they should.

Japanese Copper Watering Can

Copper Watering Can for Bonsai Made with Care in Japan

This copper watering can made in Japan is the best bonsai-related item I have ever purchased. It makes watering my bonsai trees a pleasure, almost a Zen experience. Kaneshin makes some of the best bonsai tools and equipment in the industry and the quality is outstanding.

This watering can is a functional piece of art. It will most likely outlive me. The two rosebuds have a wonderful flow. When not in use it will be hanging on the wall for all to see. It's a classic more for professional Bonsai enthusiasts. This copper watering must be stored in-house, ideally in a greenhouse where you don't forget to water plants regularly. Below, is a brief but very interesting video on how to use the copper watering can. Please always remember, if you decide to purchase this beautiful copper watering can, please handle it with care! It's a piece of art!

THE EFFECTS OF UNDER-WATERING AND OVER-WATERING A BONSAI

Bonsai plants rely on a continual flow of water to stay alive and to grow. Water is absorbed from the compost into the roots by a process known as osmosis, the water is then pulled up the body of the plant and is released into the atmosphere through the foliage. This process allows the plant to distribute vital nutrients throughout its structure. However, without a source of moisture at its roots, this flow of water is interrupted and the plant structure quickly collapses and dries out. Leaves and branch tips are the first areas to be affected, followed by branches. Finally, the trunk and roots themselves collapse and dry out by which time it is unlikely that the tree will survive without damage. Application of water at this point is often too late; moisture can actually be absorbed out of the roots back into the wet compost in a process known as reverse osmosis.

As previously mentioned, the effects of over-watering a far more subtle and can take a relatively long period of time to detect. Over-watering creates an environment for the root system that is permanently wet. Roots need oxygen to 'breathe' and the presence of too much water reduces the ability of the compost to absorb air. This in turn causes the fine root hairs to suffocate and die. The immediate effect on the tree is a loss of vigor as parts of its root system are unable to grow and/or die back.

More worryingly, the dead roots start to rot. Naturally occurring bacteria are able to colonize the dead tissue and in very wet composts are able to thrive. As the root system continues to die back from the effects of over-watering, the root-rotting bacteria are able to spread throughout the root system and slow (if not completely stop) the ability of the tree to seal the remaining live root tips. Gradually the live portion of the root system becomes smaller and as it does it is able to support less of the visible top growth of the tree.

Foliage on the tree will start to yellow and drop; smaller branches will shrivel and die back. As the live portion of the root ball becomes even smaller, it is eventually unable to support the primary branches and the trunk, causing the tree to die. Root-rot is often only detected at a repotting time in Spring. Rotted roots will be found to be black and will disintegrate when touched. The only reliable way of stopping root rot is to cut away all dead areas of the root.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I WATER?

As has already been discussed, it is important to avoid the effects of under-watering and over watering. So how do you water a bonsai correctly?

Auto-Watering system, the smart way

Firstly, NEVER water to a routine. Simply watering on a daily basis without first observing the condition of the bonsai soil is often carried out by beginners following the advice of well-meaning bonsai retailers. Bonsai can indeed require water on a daily or even twice daily basis, particularly in hot weather or early Spring. However, watering to a routine commonly leads to permanently wet compost at other times. If the compost does not lose some of its moisture content between each watering, it means it is permanently wet, leading to problems associated with over-watering.

Instead, trees should be checked routinely (at least on a daily basis), so their water requirements can be observed and they can then be watered when they actually require it. The surface of nearly all bonsai compost changes color and appearance when it starts to dry out. With careful observation, it is always possible to tell whether or not the compost surface is dry or not. This can take anything from 12 hours to a week or longer after watering, depending on a variety of factors such as the surrounding ambient temperature, plant vigor, pot size, and whether it has rained or not. In the UK for example, trees tend to need watering daily during the Summer but with lower temperatures and increased rainfall during Autumn, Winter, and early Spring, watering needs can change day by day. Never assume that because it has rained your tree has received enough water, particularly during the Summer. Often, it only rains enough to wet the upper layers of the compost.

The correct time to water is when the top centimeter of the compost has started to dry out. With regular observation of your trees on a daily basis, you should be able to apply water when it is actually required. Allowing the compost to dry a little between each watering will ensure that they are not over watered.

Different trees have different water requirements, try to water individual trees in a collection as they require it, rather than en masse.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring, and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai gets sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describe how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. A fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

Coffee Grounds as Fertilizer for your Veggies

Fertilizer can be a big expense, but it doesn't have to be. Used coffee grounds and eggshells are free and provide much-needed nutrients to the soil. By using these items in the garden, not only are plants getting the nourishment they need, but these items will not be taking up space in a landfill. Storing coffee grounds and eggshells in a countertop composter, plastic container or plastic bag will prevent them from attracting bugs while you collect enough to use in the garden. It is important while collecting eggshells and coffee grounds that the soil remains dry and not humid to prevent unnecessary molds. Make sure that what you collect does not rot in the bags or containers. I like to start collecting coffee grounds in autumn and winter. It's actually not really important when you start to collect coffee grounds, autumn and winter is just my personal preference. The quality of the coffee is not really important as all coffee has a fertilizing effect. I would go for the cheap coffee grounds if you intend to spend money on fertilizers.

Direct Application of Coffee Grounds

Coffee grounds are an excellent free source of nitrogen, an element all plants need. A common misconception about coffee grounds as a fertilizer is that it may cause problems because of high acidity. But coffee grounds are close to neutral, with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8, making them a good choice for all plants. Each type of plant will prefer a different amount of coffee, so start small by adding 1 tablespoon of coffee grounds around each plant, lightly working it into the soil once a week. Observe how your plants react and add more each week until they stop showing signs of improvement.

The classic compost soil termometer

Composted Coffee Grounds

Composted coffee grounds are probably the best, as they provide a good source of nitrogen and mildly acidic soil. However, if you don't want to get involved in composting, I think you'll be fine by putting coffee grounds directly in the soil and mixing it slightly. It probably might take a little longer to break down on its own, but it'll be ok. Coffee "tea" is also one way of doing it, but I think it's more of a diluted one-time fertilizer drink for the plant.

You don't get the same benefit as having coffee grounds in the soil, which dissolves a little bit of nutrients each day and encourages the growth of microbes. Coffee grounds are great for plants that like slightly acidic soil like tomatoes and blueberries. Coffee grounds can be used in compost like other kitchen scraps. Paper filters can be composted as well, making coffee composting as easy as throwing it in the garbage. Combine equal parts grounds, grass clippings and dry leaves to create simple and effective compost. Combine all ingredients and turn the compost over with a pitchfork once a week. Depending on the outdoor temperature, the compost should be ready to add to the garden in a few weeks.

Eggshell Tea

Eggshells are rich in calcium. Without the proper amount of calcium in the soil, plants may produce deformed blooms. You may be buying lime to prevent this problem, but eggshells are just as effective. Store eggshells in a large container of water, adding more shells as you go. Let the mixture steep for at least a few days or up to several weeks. Combine 1 cup of eggshell tea with 1 gallon of water and thoroughly water plants. Up to 1 gallon of the mixture can be used per plant. The added calcium will give plants a much-needed boost through production season.

Powdered Eggshells

Powdered eggshells can be added around the base of plants as a slow-release fertilizer. This process will benefit plants all season, and you can add it throughout the growing season. Allow eggshells to dry, then pulse in a blender until they become a fine powder. Sprinkle around the base of each plant.

Coffee grounds are versatile and can be repurposed in various ways. Here are some creative and useful things you can do with coffee grounds:

Fertilizer: Coffee grounds are rich in nitrogen, which makes them an excellent addition to your compost pile or garden. They can help improve soil structure and provide nutrients to plants.

Natural Pest Repellent: Coffee grounds can help deter pests like ants and slugs. Sprinkle them around the base of plants or near entry points to keep these pests away.

Odor Absorber: Coffee grounds are good at absorbing and neutralizing odors. Place a container of dried coffee grounds in your refrigerator or freezer to help eliminate unwanted smells.

Scouring Agent: Coffee grounds can be used as an abrasive scrub for cleaning pots, pans, and surfaces. They can help remove stubborn food residues and stains.

Exfoliating Scrub: Coffee grounds can be mixed with a little coconut oil or yogurt to create a natural exfoliating scrub for your skin. They help remove dead skin cells and leave your skin feeling smooth.

Hair Treatment: Massaging coffee grounds into your scalp can help exfoliate and promote healthy hair. They can also add shine and texture to your hair.

Natural Dye: Coffee grounds can be used as a natural dye for paper, fabric, or even Easter eggs. Simply soak the material in coffee and let it dry.

Repel Insects in the Garden: Coffee grounds can act as a barrier to deter pests like snails and cats from disturbing your garden. Sprinkle them around plants to create a protective barrier.

Homemade Candles: Incorporate coffee grounds into homemade candles for a textured, rustic appearance.

Arts and Crafts: Coffee grounds can be used in various art and craft projects to create unique textures and designs.

Deicing Walkways: In cold weather, coffee grounds can be used to add traction to icy walkways, making them safer to walk on.

Flavor Enhancer for Cooking: Coffee grounds can be added to savory dishes, such as chili or barbecue rubs, to impart a rich, smoky flavor.

Natural Cleaning Scrub: Use coffee grounds as a non-toxic scrub for cleaning dishes, kitchen sinks, or even greasy hands.

Homemade Candles: Mix coffee grounds into homemade candles to create a rustic, textured appearance.

Craft Projects: Coffee grounds can be used in various arts and crafts, such as creating textured paintings or adding a weathered look to paper.

Remember that the coffee grounds should be dried before using them for most of these purposes. Wet coffee grounds can develop mold. Additionally, if you are repurposing coffee grounds, make sure they are free from any additives like creamer or sweeteners.

The cheapest and nicest way to find a Bonsai

Beautiful piece of art Bonsai in autumn on display

The oriental art of Bonsai is very well known in the West. It’s surrounded by mystery and generates curiosity at first sight. Sometimes this interest just goes away with time, but in some cases, people like to dig deeper and get to know more about this beautiful miniature gardening technique. If you aim to cultivate Bonsai seriously, it might not be really cheap as professional tools alone may cost over $100 on average.

But to grow a bonsai it’s not only about gardening. It also has a therapeutic value, plus enables patience and fortitude and it’s a great activity for relaxing purposes. A bonsai can be with you until the end of your days. In fact, ancient Chinese believed that those who could take care of a miniature tree for a long time got eternity granted for their soul. For them, a tree could be the connection between the holy and the human, between heaven and earth.

The first records of people growing bonsai are located in China. However, the Japanese are responsible for developing and improving the art as we know it today. Contrary to what most people believe, bonsai's are not genetically dwarfed plants, they are kept small by a series of techniques and steps that, if done properly, would allow the tree to live as long as their original species. Any tree can be grown as a bonsai. However, you have to think about many details before starting.

BEFORE YOU START

Before asking yourself how to grow a bonsai, you should consider which species you would like to plant and also the conditions of your home, surrounding environment, and climate. There are a few options that could be good for starters, such as the Chinese elm and the Japanese black pine. Keep also in mind that any tree can become a bonsai, but details like leaf size should be thought about. A lot of people prefer trees with small leaves because are easier to model.

There’s also another consideration you should make when planning to grow a bonsai: There are many ways to do it. You could start from zero, which means buying seeds from a shop or picking them up near the trees around your home or in the wild. You could also find or buy a young plant, called a “prebonsai”, which consists of a germinated tree in its early stage. That way the whole process becomes faster, even though remember: to grow a bonsai is also an exercise of patience. The last option may be the easiest but also the least educational: that is to buy a full-grown bonsai. In that case, you would only have to do caring activities. It’s important to know: There are no “bonsai seeds”. If someone offers you such a product he’s either lying or don’t know much about bonsai. The seed which a bonsai comes from is just a regular tree seed, the process of making a bonsai comes later, after it is germinated.

THE CHEAPEST AND NICEST WAY

To grow a bonsai from seed is a slow and hard-working process but is also the most rewarding way to do it. It may take years and you may fail at first, but as long as you keep trying and feel passionate about it you’ll be amazed by the results.

If you’re a starter then you’ll probably don’t want to wait that long for results. What most people recommend is to buy a pre-bonsai, or find one in a forest near your home (remember that a pre-bonsai is nothing more than a tree in its early stages). In case you decide on the second option there are many considerations. You need permission from the landowner to do it. Also, you have to be very careful not to damage the roots when digging. There is also a specific time of the year to do it: the first weeks of spring.

When you grow a bonsai from seed you should do the planting on autumn, so they start germinating in spring. It’s always better to select trees that can adapt easily to the climate of the place you live; that way it’ll work in our favor.

When searching for affordable bonsai, be sure to research the specific care requirements of the species you're interested in and evaluate the health of the tree before making a purchase. Bonsai trees can be delicate, and proper care is essential to maintain their beauty and longevity.

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Professional Bonsai Soil Mix from close perspective

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

The little bonsai

Growing and Caring for Bonsai Trees

Chinese Elm Bonsai

Bonsai Styles Explained

Flexibility of the rules

Watering Bonsai - How to water a Bonsai

Coffee Grounds as Fertilizer for your Veggies

The cheapest and nicest way to find a Bonsai