World of Bonsai and Gardening

Different Soil for Different Crops - さまざまな作物のための異なる土壌

First and foremost, to find out the right soil and pH level for your trees is not rocket science. The pH scale indicates acidity or alkalinity. A soil with a pH number below 7 is acid, while one with a pH above 7 is alkaline. Garden plants typically grow best in neutral or slightly acid soil (pH 7 or slightly below; see illustration at left). Most won't thrive in highly acid or highly alkaline soil, though a few have adapted to such extremes. In general, some nutrients cannot be efficiently absorbed by plant roots if soil pH is too high. If it is too low, on the other hand, nutrients may be taken up too efficiently: the excess cannot be processed fast enough and overloads a plant's system, causing it to languish and die.

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Local climate gives you a clue to the likely soil pH. In high-rainfall areas, soils are often acidic. It's in these regions that you tend to find acid-loving plants like azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, and blueberries. Alkaline soils, in contrast, are typically found in low-rainfall areas. Many of the plants popular for waterwise gardens--sorts that need little water once they are established--do well in soil on the alkaline side. The olive, native to the Mediterranean basin, is one example of a plant that thrives in alkaline soil; oleander (Nerium oleander) and pomegranate also perform well.

If you're not sure about your soil's pH, you can test it yourself with one of the inexpensive test kits sold at most garden centers. Such kits can be relied on to tell you whether your soil is basically alkaline, acid, or neutral. If you suspect that your soil is highly alkaline or acid--or if a do-it-yourself kit so indicates--you may want to confirm the diagnosis with a professional soil test. Such tests are analyzed by laboratories; along with the results, you'll normally receive recommendations for correcting the pH of the soil tested.

Lime, available in either ground or powdered form, is often suggested to raise pH. Ground limestone is the slightly less potent of the two and raises pH more slowly. The amount needed depends on the soil texture (more is needed for clay than for sandy soil, for example) and other factors. Wood ashes and oyster shell also make acid soil more neutral.

To lower pH, common sulfur is the least expensive choice, though ferrous sulfate and aluminum sulfate are sometimes recommended instead. Ferrous sulfate, which also adds iron to the soil, is of the most help to plants that show yellow leaves as well as overall poor health. You'll also lower the pH of alkaline soil over time by regularly applying organic amendments such as compost and manure.

To determine how much lime or sulfur to add, follow the advice included with your test results. If your soil is extremely acidic or alkaline and you need to change the level by more than one point on the pH scale, it's best to bring in a professional: he or she can both analyze test results and perform an on-site evaluation to determine whether the soil can be amended successfully and how best to go about it.

If amending the soil just isn't feasible, plant in raised beds filled with problem-free, well-amended topsoil; or choose native plants that thrive in the unamended soil.

Professional Soil Tester Three Way Meter

Foods for example can be classified into two groups namely the acidic food group and the alkaline food group. These foods are categorized as such because they affect the urine pH level when they are consumed. Hence, taking in too much acidic food will lead to systemic acidosis whereas too much ingestion of alkaline foods may also lead to severe alkalosis. Nevertheless, the proper balance of acidic and alkaline food intake is required for various purposes.

To understand more about this concept, it is important to know about the pH scale. This scale runs from 0 to 14 with the bottom half (0 to 7) belonging to the acidic range and the upper half (7.1 to 14) belonging to the alkaline range. Under normal circumstances, the human body tries to maintain a slightly alkaline pH of 7.4 through mineral deposition and withdrawal from bones and soft tissues. It is said that 50%-80% of the daily food intake must come from alkaline foods to retain the body’s acid-base equilibrium.

Alkaline foods include fruits (citrus, watermelons, papaya, mango, grapes, melons, pears, apples, banana, kiwis, peaches, pineapples, cherries, avocados), a range of vegetables (parsley, spinach, okra, broccoli, squash, celery, green beans, carrots, beets, lentils, tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips), oils (grape seed oil, olive oil, canola oil) and other food products like goat cheese, hazelnuts, chestnuts, raw sugar and wild rice among others.

Popular examples of acidic foods are blueberries, prunes, cranberries, white bread, prunes, pasta, wheat, pork, beef, shellfish, ice cream, peanuts, beer, alcohol, string beans, kidney beans, walnuts, plums, store-bought juices, rye bread, brown rice, organ meats, eggs, cold water fish, pumpkin, eggs, sesame seeds, corn oil, sunflower seeds, fatty dairy products, honey, margarine, lima beans, skinless potatoes, navy beans, pinto beans, canned fruits, oats, white rice, cashews, coffee, pistachios, wine, turkey, chicken, lamb and majority of condiments.

There are many health-conscious folks who believe that an alkaline-rich diet is better than its acidic counterpart. Having such will prevent too much acid from accumulating in the bloodstream as well as reduce the risk of degenerative disorders such as osteoporosis, heart disease, and cancers to name a few.

1. Basically, the majority of fruits, grains, and vegetables are alkaline foods while meat products are usually acidic in nature.

2. Because the body is slightly alkaline in nature, you must make sure to eat enough alkaline-rich foods because it is a lot healthier compared to eating too much acidic foods.

The story of Masanobu Fukuoka

Masanobu Fukuoka taking care of rice fields

Fukuoka was a plant scientist working in Japan in the 1940s, advising the government on the best crops and edible plants to sustain the country during the war. Shortly afterward, he had something of an epiphany about science and gave up his job and returned to the countryside to farm.

Science, Fukuoka concluded, is part of the problem, not the solution. It only seems to solve problems that it created in the first place, like a man who breaks his own roof and then is pleased with himself when he manages to fix it. When fields are ploughed, or trees are pruned, farmers create problems for themselves which means more work. Convinced there was a ‘natural’ way to farm without all these techniques, Fukuoka began experimenting with how little he could do. “I was aiming at a pleasant, natural way of farming,” he said, “which results in making the work easier instead of harder. ‘How about not doing this? How about not doing that?’ – that was my way of thinking”

Up in the mountains, he developed a method (or rather a non-method) that flies in the face of modern farming. “I ultimately reached the conclusion that there was no need to plow, no need to apply fertilizer, no need to make compost, no need to use insecticide,” he wrote. “When you get right down to it, there are few agricultural practices that are really necessary.”

This conclusion required a good deal of trial and error and lots of dead plants along the way. The One Straw Revolution tells his story, from his start as an idealistic young man to a troublesome visionary with a constant string of visiting experts, researchers, and traveling hippies wishing to learn his secrets.

Those secrets include such imaginative ideas as planting one crop before the other is harvested, so

Bestseller Book The One Straw Revolution

that the new crop gets the jump on any weeds. Fukuoka grew his vegetables ‘semi-wild’ on the mountain slopes, sometimes pressing seeds into balls of clay so they wouldn’t be eaten by the birds, and then throwing them out to take their chances. He farmed rice and barley, harvesting it and scattering the straw straight back onto the fields, a policy of “returning to the soil everything grown in the field except the grain itself”. Nitrogen fixing ‘green fertiliser’ such as white clover grew across the ground in between crops and across the orchard floor around his citrus trees. Chickens and ducks roamed free and ate the insects.

But, you don’t really read The One Straw Revolution for gardening tips. For one thing, it’s only directly relevant to Japan. More importantly, the book is as much a work of philosophy as it is a life story or an explanation of natural agriculture. Fukuoka believed that we don’t really know anything about how nature works, and that much of modern farming was setting itself up for failure. He rails against growing out of season vegetables that are a “watery concoction of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash, with a little help from the seed”, and Japan’s growing taste for meat. He predicted that if the Japanese diet continued to change the way it was, there would be a food crisis in thirty years time. In that he was not uncorrect – Japan is the world’s biggest food importer, and has led the charge in land-leasing deals in Africa.

“If we do have a food crisis it will not be caused by the insufficiency of nature’s productive power, but by the extravagance of human desire”, he wrote, advocating a simpler lifestyle closer to nature. His simple living code extends to work too. “I do not particularly like the word ‘work'” he writes in my favourite little passage. “Human beings are the only animals who have to work, and I think this is the most ridiculous thing in the world. Other animals make their living by living.”

Fukuoka is an amiable and ingenious writer, and The One Straw Revolution is full of passion for the earth and its generosity, and bemused irreverence towards false ideas of progress. You won’t agree with everything he says, perhaps his views on education and health in particular, but this is nevertheless an unusually wise and refreshing read.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. A fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

The Art of Saikei 栽景 - Planted Landscape

Impressive chinese style saikei Bonsai with landscape

Saikei consists of two Japanese words, 'Sai' meaning a plant and 'Kei' meaning a view or a scene. Another way of describing this subject from a Chinese point of view is a Penjing Landscape, or rock, water, or land planting. And to confuse you even mere another name is Bonkei. Don’t get me to explain that one! Saikei is a descendant of the Japanese arts of bonsai, bonseki, and bonkei, and is related less directly to similar miniature-landscape arts like the Chinese penjing and the Vietnamese hòn non bộ.

It is the art of creating tray landscapes that combine miniature living trees with soil, rocks, water, and related vegetation (like ground cover) in a single tray or similar container. A saikei landscape will remind the viewer of a natural location through its overall topography, choice of ground materials, and the species used in its plantings.

Unlike bonsai this style gives you the opportunity to play with cuttings and seedlings. You can also use developed smaller bonsai. In addition to this you can also work with small stones and rocks. As this material is within everyone’s reach Saikei can be the perfect starting point for aspiring new enthusiasts. The art of Sakei became popular in the US around 1960 but it was already known since some early Chinese settlers came to america to build the railroad.

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Saikei is planted up in a shallow tray. This is usually a rectangular or oval shape. You can also use very flat rocks. The best colour for the base is earth tones for a natural look.

Your main objective in creating a Saikei (or any other name that you choose) is to imitate a landscape

Moss Spores used for Bonsai landscaping

in nature. For this of course one has to understand nature just like in bonsai. This time you have to observe the total scene in the environment, not just what the environment has done to the tree. It is a good idea to observe rocky scenes, mountain sides, and coastal scenery to get a feel for this style. Observe how the trees grow and the direction and shape of the rocks.

Creation of a Sake can be done with the same species of trees or a mixed variety. Make sure the leaves are small. Some can have berries or flowers. lf a variety of plant types are used make sure they are in harmony with each other, for example colour and texture, if you want your Sake to appear realistic. If you choose small young trees you will get the chance to explore shaping and arranging without the expense of large expensive trees.

Stones and rocks can be included. Make sure they have interesting shapes. Rough and jagged surfaces are better than smooth shiny ones. The stones must be all of a similar type and texture and be a variety of sizes. For example a stone with a white streak down the side of it can be used to create a waterfall or an arched rock could be a seaside cave- Fine gravel is also used for pathways and seaside scenes.

Grasses and mosses are also an important component. These are best being very small in leaf and fine in texture. Different types and colours of moss can be used to create texture.

Figurines of animals, bridges, people, boats and pavilions can also be added. These add interest and can personalise your Sake. It must be remembered though to keep these additions in proportion.

So if you want to create something truly memorable get together the following; flat rectangular or oval tray, or large flat rock. A selection of rocks and gravel. moss, grasses and last but not least a selection of small trees and have a go. Bring your creation to your next bonsai club meeting for discussion.

Saikei History

To better understand the art of saikei, we have to go back in it's history. The school of saikei was founded in Japan by Toshio Kawamoto after World War II. Kawamoto was born in 1917, the eldest child of the bonsai master Tokichi Kawamoto, and was trained in the art of bonsai. In 1960, following

his father's death, he ran the family bonsai nursery Meiju-En. He actively promoted the practice of saikei after this time, publishing two seminal books on saikei (Bonsai-Saikei and Saikei: Living Landscapes in Miniature) and participating in the creation of the Nippon Bonsai-Saikei Institute and the Nippon Saikei Association.

At the time Kawamoto began developing the rules and form of Saikei, the practice of bonsai was at a critical low point in Japan. The labor-intensive cultivation of bonsai had been near impossible under wartime conditions. Many bonsai, in development or completed, had died in the nation's major collections, as well as in the gardens of individuals across the country. Post-war economic conditions made the purchase and cultivation of a real bonsai almost impossible for average Japanese households.

Kawamoto created a simple form of tree display providing many of the aesthetic and contemplative qualities of bonsai, while also supporting the cultivation of plant stock that could eventually be used as bonsai material. He based this art form mainly on the principles of group plantings from bonsai and rock displays from bonkei and bonseki. His original objective was to age and thicken up the trunks of young nursery stock. Saikei was a way for inexpensive plants and stones to be brought together in a pleasing arrangement, easily accessible to the average person. As a saikei specimen aged, it would produce candidate bonsai trees, which could be removed from the saikei for cultivation as bonsai.

As a relatively young art form, Japanese saikei does not have deep traditions of its own. But it is related to a number of older confined-landscape forms popular in Asia, including Japan's bonkei, the Chinese art of penjing, and the Vietnamese art of hòn non bộ. The term penjing applies both to individual trees growing in containers, similar to bonsai, and also to detailed miniature landscapes which include trees, other plants, rocks, soil, water, and miniature figurines of people, animals, and other items. Similarly, hòn non bộ emphasizes the creation of stylized miniature islands projecting from a body of water and carrying a burden of trees and other plants.

In post-war Japan, saikei was seen as an environmentally and economically responsible way to propagate trees for eventual use in bonsai. Even economically constrained individuals or families could enjoy many of the contemplative and aesthetic benefits of bonsai, without incurring the effort and the costs related to mature bonsai specimens. The same benefits accrue to saikei today.

The ancient art of Bonsai landscaping - book release 1974

The ancient art of Bonsai landscaping 1974

More Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

More Bonsai articles can be found here:

Please click here for more information on --> Chinese Penjing Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> The Origins of Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> The Art of Saikei Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> Japanese Tanuki Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> How to Water a Bonsai
Please click here for more information on --> Bonsai Healing Methods

Bonsai Healing Methods

It all starts when the tree is young and green believing that such healthy state is eternal. Soon you will realize that leafs start dropping off which is a first sign of some sort of deficiency.

We all know that most Bonsai Trees need a very specific amount of water to stay alive. Too little water can result in brown leaves and a dried, wilted trunk. Too much water can become trapped, rotting the roots of the tree and causing the leaves to turn brown. And we do know that different breeds of Bonsai Trees rely on different environments to stay alive.

However, the majority don’t flourish in direct sunlight. This doesn’t mean that they’re indoor plants. A lot of them do better outdoors. If you don’t know what type of Bonsai Tree you have, and what kind of sunlight it likes, keep it outdoors in indirect sunlight as a rule of thumb. It is often very possible that you Bonsai Tree simply needs more room to grow. If it’s been a long time since you’ve repotted your tree, consider doing it now. Most new bonsai tree owners are not equipped to grow it. Oftentimes, they see the plant, think, "Wow, how cool!" and bring it home, knowing nothing about how to take care of it. It's not difficult to grow a bonsai, but it does require that you understand the fundamentals about how to take care of them. You need to learn about bonsai if you want a happy, healthy plant. If you take the time to learn, your tree will bring you years of joy.

Identify the Problem

Kiyonal Healing and Grafting Cream for Bonsai

First, you should look closely at your Bonsai tree to identify what the problem is. Look for signs of insect infestation, such as wilt, mites, and webs (they may be difficult to spot, especially on an indoor tree.)

Next, check for signs of disease, over-watering, or under-watering. Foliage spots, wilt, browning

leaves, soft roots and/or trunk, or creases in the trunk are all signs of disease.

Signs of Under-watering:

If you look carefully at the trunk, you can see tiny creases that indicate that the plant is shriveling up.

If you stick a finger into the soil, it feels hard and dry. An extensive root system may indicate that the roots have been venturing far and wide, trying to find water.

Jav

Signs of Over-watering:

The roots appear to be rotting and the trunk is soft.
A shallow root system may be a sign that the roots have not had to search for water.
Root-rotting bacteria love moist environments and feed on dead roots. As roots die as a result from over-watering, bacteria spread.
You may see tiny white things in the soil. This may be a sign of fungus gnat larva, which like soil that is kept too moist for too long and also feed on the smallest, finest feeder roots.
The plant looks tired and no longer vibrant and healthy.
An excessive number of leaves turn yellow and fall off.
The smaller branches shrink and die away.
Eventually, the roots may not be sufficient to hold the plant up, and it may fall to one side.

As you can see, it's much easier to recognize the signs of too much water; a lack of water is much harder to detect.

Trim the Dead Spots

You’ll want to trim away parts of the tree that are dead to encourage future growth. Pinch away brown and/or wilted leaves from the stem, and use pruning shears to trim away any dead stems or branches (a branch is dead if it crumbles, or snaps away with ease). Treat the Tree with a Gentle Insecticide

If you’ve determined that your Bonsai is infested with pests or fungi, spray it with a light insecticide

or fungicide spray. Determine your tree’s symptoms before you choose the spray, to ensure that you buy the correct treatment. Lightly spray the foliage of the tree to ensure that every area is lightly coated in the chemical.

Moisture Level Checker (Click on image for more information)

Check the Moisture Levels

Before you doing anything else, check the moisture levels in the soil. To do this, stick your finger 1-2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, the browning leaves may be caused by dehydration. These next steps will help the plant to recover from this common problem.

Alternatively, you may want to try an electronic moisture-checking device. This will help you to get quick results and allow you to take swift action before mold kicks in. Remember that mold is can cause severe damage to your Bonsai. Once mold kicks in, it may be too late to recover your Bonsai from decay.

Take Care of the Roots

Remove the Bonsai Tree from the container and look closely at the root system. With pruning shears, cut away any dead or rotten roots. These roots may be preventing the Bonsai Tree from receiving the nutrients it needs. Cut them back to the root mass, and be careful not to cut any healthy roots.

Place the Bonsai in a Temporary Container

Let the Bonsai rest in a clean container filled with tepid water. While it’s resting, clean out its former container thoroughly, and begin preparing a new soil mix. The soil should be loose, and able to retain water efficiently. The best soil mixture will depend a lot upon the type of Bonsai Tree you have, so choose carefully. Create a mixture with a good fertilizer, and nutrient-rich potting soil. Place wire mesh around the drainage holes, and fill the container a third of the way with soil.

Let it Soak

Take the Bonsai out of the water, and place it in the center of your container. Fill it the rest of the way with soil. Afterward, place it in a large container of water (like a sink or a bucket) while it’s potted. The water should reach about 1 inch over the surface of the container. Let it sit in the water until the soil is free of air.

Remove the tree from the water, and allow the water to drain from the drainage holes.

A Warm, Shaded Area

Choose a well-ventilated, warm, and partially shaded location to place your Bonsai until it heals.

How to revive a Bonsai if dried out?

Imagine that you come back from a long vacation and discover that your Bonsai dried out. The first thing that comes to your mind is ''Oh dear, oh dear, so much effort, so many years wasted and now this!''

This is what you have to do: immediately submerge the bonsai, pot, and all, in a large container full of water. wait until the bubbles have dissipated, indicating the pot is already saturated. take out of the water and place the bonsai in a shaded spot of your garden. probably all the leaves will fall off after a few days which is the plant's way of concentrating its energy to survive and not wasting it on d replaceable leaves. in a few days, buds will appear. go to a bonsai store or a garden supply and buy a bottle of Superthrive a concentrated vitamin for plants. read the instructions on how to apply. Water the bonsai with a few drops of Superthrive in your watering can. in a month your bonsai should be fully recovered.

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Bonsai Tools Explained

You will be surprised to find out that countless Bonsai care tools exist throughout the World of Bonsai. Please always remember the saying ''different strokes for different folks'' meaning that some tools may be good for hardwood but some others don't. Another point to remember is that expensive does not necessarily translate to good bonsai tools.

There are literally dozens of types of Bonsai Tools that have evolved over the millennia, tool that are specialist in their use, like the branch splitter; and some like the Jin Pliers, which have evolved from everyday home utensils. The Jin Plier are no more than Chinese Tongs used to hold the hot wok with its Angled tapered head and nose.

Over the years, Bonsai Tools have become essential for Bonsai professionals. Bonsai trees that are cut with simple scissors can not achieve clean and sharp cuts as Bonsai Tools do.

I shall present the tool grouped by how they are applied to everyday Bonsai maintenance tasks, like Pruning, Re-potting, Shaping and Wiring, and Carving, Feeding and Watering. I have found a nice video on youtube that gives a glimpse on Bonsai tools for beginners. It explains why you should start with cheaper tools first.

Branch & Leaf Pruning

Bud & Fine Twig Shears (Koeda Kiri Hasami) - These long reach scissors are designed for pruning delicate branches, twigs and buds. Their long slender handles are ideal for those difficult to reach places.

General Purpose Shears (Ashinaga Basami) – These comfortable shears are for your every day

Branch & Root Shears (Hasami) - This heavy duty tool allows you to prune your Bonsai’s thicker Roots and Branches. Its broad blade allows you raverse the fully width in one clean cut, allowing for smooth and clean cut end to end, and good for healing cleanly and quickly. To use, for pruning fine to medium branches and roots. Do not walk into your Bonsai Garden without them. The large handles allow you to use all your palm and fingers to exert maximum pressure.

The Concave Branch cutter (Mataeda Hasami) - is used to remove a whole branch at the trunk. The concave cut left behind fills over itself leaving little or no scar.

The Knob cutter (Kobu Kiri Hasami) - leaves an almost spherical cut on the branch thereby allowing it to heal flush with the surface.

Leaf cutter - Easy to use, spring loaded leaf cutters, with razor sharp blades, it makes defoliating trees a breeze.

Re-potting Tools

Root Cutters – In shape almost like the Branch splitter, but the cutting lips are not as deep as those of a branch splitter, and the lips are positioned at a slight angle as the Branch Splitters are positioned horizontally. Ideal for cutting the thicker tap roots and adventitious roots and for nipping out root stumps closer to the trunk.

Root Hooks – Single and Multi-pronged invaluable tool when re-potting. The single-pronged hook is used to tease out individual and difficult roots, while the multi-pronged hook is used to untangle root balls.

Like root hooks are used on smaller root balls, and to plane or rake the surface of the soil on a Bonsai pot to remove debris or to agitate the top soil if it has got compacted or to remove surface weeds.

Drainage Screens – Draining Sieves play two roles, one it prevents the loss of soil from the drainage holes, and second it helps keep insects and another pest out of the pot. Use a non-clogging variety of drainage screens.

Rakes – Like root hooks are used on smaller root balls, and to plane or rake the surface of the soil on a Bonsai pot to remove debris or to agitate the topsoil if it has got compacted or to remove surface weeds.

Tweezers – have a multitude of tasks but are mainly used to remove weeds and unwanted buds.

Spatulas – Very important tool, make sure you get a strong heavy metal-grade spatula, is used for many tasks around the potting shed, but I think the most important of them is to tease those stubborn little trees out of their pots when you need to re-pot them.

Sieves – To ensure that you use just the right size grit or growing medium for you bonsai.

Scoops – In valuable little helper, beats having to use your hand to fill the pot with, some of these handy scoops even come with an in-built sieve.

Tamping Trowel - Used to tamp down soil when re-potting or after mixing in solid bonsai feed.

Coir Brush – The brush end is used to smooth down soil surfaces and give a finished look, or just brush-off dead leaves and debris of the surface. The handle end made be used to clean or rub off branches and trunks unsightly loose bark or lichen, or perhaps even the odd pest.

Carving Tools

Shari and Si Diao Carving Tool - are used for creating and enhancing the quality of deadwood display on Bonsai.

Hand saw – for use in lots of little tasks. Look for a pull saw version if you can find one. Essential for when you are on those collecting field trips.

Grafting Knife – ideal for carving and also for propagation purposes.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring, and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Jav

How to repair a snapped bonsai branch

A favorite bonsai is blown off a bench during strong winds and several important branches get broken. Or, when wiring a tree, a branch is bent a little too far, and the branch snaps. Many things can actually happen when the tree is not indoor and then timing for a quick fix is crucial for the survival of the branch or even the entire tree.

Judging by the number of questions raised on the bonsai forums over the years, these are events that have happened to all of us at least once. Very often an enthusiast has tried to repair the branch themselves and though the cambium layer repairs itself, the wound keeps reopening and is a weak point in the branch.

So how do you successfully repair a snapped branch? Or does it just need to be removed and regrown? Though I have seen many repairs and remedies offered by fellow enthusiasts (ranging from the ridiculous to the sublime) the best way of repairing a snapped branch is extraordinarily simple. When there is a will there's a way! An easy example reflected below illustrates how to fix a snapped branch. Chances of recouping the branch are pretty high and I am not worried that in few months the tree will be back growing in full swing as it did from the very beginning.

I've snapped this thin privet branch and it shows a pretty typical scenario. As a two-year-old shoot, the wood is quite brittle so it has snapped on one side while being bent into position. If the branch is completely separated into two pieces, it cannot be repaired and should be pruned away and the wound cleaned up. However, if one side of the cambium layer (branch) is still attached naturally, it can literally be glued back together.

A spot of bonsai glue (any brand) is put onto the surface of the wood. As the callus forms, the paste drops off gradually without leaving marks. I have used this cut seal on my bonsai for a number of years and can not say enough about it. It is easy to apply covers nicely and blends in with the bonsai so as not to make it stand out. Highly recommend getting this to add to your bonsai supplies.

and the branch is glued back together. It really is as simple as that! The glue glues the woody parts of the branch together very tightly and supports the branch while the wound (and cambium layer) heals. Eventually, both sides of the snapped branch grow together; this can take as little as 3 or 4 weeks on vigorous branches during the growing season. I find that the repair is so strong that the branch can be manipulated (wired into position) within 5 minutes of the repair being made. The repair site will have lost its elasticity though, so don't not try to create a bend at that point.

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Any excess glue will dry a white color on the surrounding bark. It is unsightly so try to avoid using too much glue when making your repair but any excess will fall away naturally after a few months. Finally, always keep some bonsai glue to hand. If you do a lot of wiring you will find it becomes a valuable tool! I find that as thicker branches are stronger and more robust they tend to splinter rather than snap and so this article focuses on branches up to around 1/2" thick. However, repairs can be made using this technique with thicker branches. Bonsai glue is not poisonous to a tree and will not harm the tree or the branch, nor will split glue damage any leaves (it just looks awful). The glue can be used on woody or tender shoots. There is no need to wrap or protect the glued area on branches of less than 1/2", above this diameter, a thin spread of Vaseline over the damaged bark/cambium is more than sufficient. There is no need to wire the branch or for the branch to be wired for the repair to be successful. The fact is that bonsai glue dries very rapidly and will tolerate moisture (in the wood) which makes it so effective for repairing branches.

This technique can be used on all tree species; coniferous, deciduous or broad leaf tree during active growth or during dormancy. This is about it, that's all that it takes to repair a broken branch. I would appreciate your feedback and share your gluing experience with many bonsai enthusiasts around the world.

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Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The little bonsai

Growing and Caring for Bonsai Trees

Different Soil for Different Crops - さまざまな作物のための異なる土壌

The Art of Saikei 栽景 - Planted Landscape

Bonsai Healing Methods

Bonsai Tools Explained

How to repair a snapped bonsai branch