Bonsai Healing Methods

It all starts when the tree is young and green believing that such healthy state is eternal. Soon you will realize that leafs start dropping off which is a first sign of some sort of deficiency.

We all know that most Bonsai Trees need a very specific amount of water to stay alive. Too little water can result in brown leaves and a dried, wilted trunk. Too much water can become trapped, rotting the roots of the tree and causing the leaves to turn brown. And we do know that different breeds of Bonsai Trees rely on different environments to stay alive.

However, the majority don’t flourish in direct sunlight. This doesn’t mean that they’re indoor plants. A lot of them do better outdoors. If you don’t know what type of Bonsai Tree you have, and what kind of sunlight it likes, keep it outdoors in indirect sunlight as a rule of thumb. It is often very possible that you Bonsai Tree simply needs more room to grow. If it’s been a long time since you’ve repotted your tree, consider doing it now. Most new bonsai tree owners are not equipped to grow it. Oftentimes, they see the plant, think, "Wow, how cool!" and bring it home, knowing nothing about how to take care of it. It's not difficult to grow a bonsai, but it does require that you understand the fundamentals about how to take care of them. You need to learn about bonsai if you want a happy, healthy plant. If you take the time to learn, your tree will bring you years of joy.

Identify the Problem

Kiyonal Healing and Grafting Cream for Bonsai

First, you should look closely at your Bonsai tree to identify what the problem is. Look for signs of insect infestation, such as wilt, mites, and webs (they may be difficult to spot, especially on an indoor tree.)

Next, check for signs of disease, over-watering, or under-watering. Foliage spots, wilt, browning

leaves, soft roots and/or trunk, or creases in the trunk are all signs of disease.

Signs of Under-watering:

If you look carefully at the trunk, you can see tiny creases that indicate that the plant is shriveling up.

If you stick a finger into the soil, it feels hard and dry. An extensive root system may indicate that the roots have been venturing far and wide, trying to find water.

                                              Jav 

Signs of Over-watering:

The roots appear to be rotting and the trunk is soft.
A shallow root system may be a sign that the roots have not had to search for water.
Root-rotting bacteria love moist environments and feed on dead roots. As roots die as a result from over-watering, bacteria spread.
You may see tiny white things in the soil. This may be a sign of fungus gnat larva, which like soil that is kept too moist for too long and also feed on the smallest, finest feeder roots.
The plant looks tired and no longer vibrant and healthy.
An excessive number of leaves turn yellow and fall off.
The smaller branches shrink and die away.
Eventually, the roots may not be sufficient to hold the plant up, and it may fall to one side.

As you can see, it's much easier to recognize the signs of too much water; a lack of water is much harder to detect.

Trim the Dead Spots

You’ll want to trim away parts of the tree that are dead to encourage future growth. Pinch away brown and/or wilted leaves from the stem, and use pruning shears to trim away any dead stems or branches (a branch is dead if it crumbles, or snaps away with ease). Treat the Tree with a Gentle Insecticide

If you’ve determined that your Bonsai is infested with pests or fungi, spray it with a light insecticide

or fungicide spray. Determine your tree’s symptoms before you choose the spray, to ensure that you buy the correct treatment. Lightly spray the foliage of the tree to ensure that every area is lightly coated in the chemical.

Moisture Level Checker (Click on image for more information)

Check the Moisture Levels

Before you doing anything else, check the moisture levels in the soil. To do this, stick your finger 1-2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, the browning leaves may be caused by dehydration. These next steps will help the plant to recover from this common problem.

Alternatively, you may want to try an electronic moisture-checking device. This will help you to get quick results and allow you to take swift action before mold kicks in. Remember that mold is can cause severe damage to your Bonsai. Once mold kicks in, it may be too late to recover your Bonsai from decay.

Take Care of the Roots

Remove the Bonsai Tree from the container and look closely at the root system. With pruning shears, cut away any dead or rotten roots. These roots may be preventing the Bonsai Tree from receiving the nutrients it needs. Cut them back to the root mass, and be careful not to cut any healthy roots.

Place the Bonsai in a Temporary Container

Let the Bonsai rest in a clean container filled with tepid water. While it’s resting, clean out its former container thoroughly, and begin preparing a new soil mix. The soil should be loose, and able to retain water efficiently. The best soil mixture will depend a lot upon the type of Bonsai Tree you have, so choose carefully. Create a mixture with a good fertilizer, and nutrient-rich potting soil. Place wire mesh around the drainage holes, and fill the container a third of the way with soil.

Let it Soak

Take the Bonsai out of the water, and place it in the center of your container. Fill it the rest of the way with soil. Afterward, place it in a large container of water (like a sink or a bucket) while it’s potted. The water should reach about 1 inch over the surface of the container. Let it sit in the water until the soil is free of air.

Remove the tree from the water, and allow the water to drain from the drainage holes.

A Warm, Shaded Area

Choose a well-ventilated, warm, and partially shaded location to place your Bonsai until it heals.


How to revive a Bonsai if dried out?

Imagine that you come back from a long vacation and discover that your Bonsai dried out. The first thing that comes to your mind is ''Oh dear, oh dear, so much effort, so many years wasted and now this!'' 

This is what you have to do: immediately submerge the bonsai, pot, and all, in a large container full of water. wait until the bubbles have dissipated, indicating the pot is already saturated. take out of the water and place the bonsai in a shaded spot of your garden. probably all the leaves will fall off after a few days which is the plant's way of concentrating its energy to survive and not wasting it on d replaceable leaves. in a few days, buds will appear. go to a bonsai store or a garden supply and buy a bottle of Superthrive a concentrated vitamin for plants. read the instructions on how to apply. Water the bonsai with a few drops of Superthrive in your watering can. in a month your bonsai should be fully recovered.

         Japanese Av Star

The cheapest and nicest way to find a Bonsai

The oriental art of Bonsai is very well known in the West. It’s surrounded by mystery and generates curiosity at first sight. Sometimes this interest just goes away with time, but in some cases, people like to dig deeper and get to know more about this beautiful miniature gardening technique. If you aim to cultivate Bonsai seriously, it might not be really cheap as professional tools alone may cost over $100 on average. 

But to grow a bonsai it’s not only about gardening. It also has a therapeutic value, plus enables patience and fortitude and it’s a great activity for relaxing purposes. A bonsai can be with you until the end of your days. In fact, ancient Chinese believed that those who could take care of a miniature tree for a long time got eternity granted for their soul. For them, a tree could be the connection between the holy and the human, between heaven and earth.

The first records of people growing bonsai are located in China. However, the Japanese are responsible for developing and improving the art as we know it today. Contrary to what most people believe, bonsai's are not genetically dwarfed plants, they are kept small by a series of techniques and steps that, if done properly, would allow the tree to live as long as their original species. Any tree can be grown as a bonsai. However, you have to think about many details before starting.

BEFORE YOU START

Before asking yourself how to grow a bonsai, you should consider which species you would like to plant and also the conditions of your home, surrounding environment, and climate. There are a few options that could be good for starters, such as the Chinese elm and the Japanese black pine. Keep also in mind that any tree can become a bonsai, but details like leaf size should be thought about. A lot of people prefer trees with small leaves because are easier to model.

There’s also another consideration you should make when planning to grow a bonsai: There are many ways to do it. You could start from zero, which means buying seeds from a shop or picking them up near the trees around your home or in the wild. You could also find or buy a young plant, called a “prebonsai”, which consists of a germinated tree in its early stage. That way the whole process becomes faster, even though remember: to grow a bonsai is also an exercise of patience. The last option may be the easiest but also the least educational: that is to buy a full-grown bonsai. In that case, you would only have to do caring activities. It’s important to know: There are no “bonsai seeds”. If someone offers you such a product he’s either lying or don’t know much about bonsai. The seed which a bonsai comes from is just a regular tree seed, the process of making a bonsai comes later, after it is germinated.

THE CHEAPEST AND NICEST WAY

To grow a bonsai from seed is a slow and hard-working process but is also the most rewarding way to do it. It may take years and you may fail at first, but as long as you keep trying and feel passionate about it you’ll be amazed by the results.

If you’re a starter then you’ll probably don’t want to wait that long for results. What most people recommend is to buy a pre-bonsai, or find one in a forest near your home (remember that a pre-bonsai is nothing more than a tree in its early stages). In case you decide on the second option there are many considerations. You need permission from the landowner to do it. Also, you have to be very careful not to damage the roots when digging. There is also a specific time of the year to do it: the first weeks of spring.

When you grow a bonsai from seed you should do the planting on autumn, so they start germinating in spring. It’s always better to select trees that can adapt easily to the climate of the place you live; that way it’ll work in our favor.

When searching for affordable bonsai, be sure to research the specific care requirements of the species you're interested in and evaluate the health of the tree before making a purchase. Bonsai trees can be delicate, and proper care is essential to maintain their beauty and longevity.

TO THE STORE

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

The Right Pot for Your Bonsai

Choosing the best pot for a particular tree is not easy. As well as the more mundane factory-made Chinese and Korean pots there are a number of bonsai potters and potteries throughout the world that are able to offer individual and diverse pot designs and glazes to the enthusiast. There are so many available colors sizes and designs that it can become very difficult to identify exactly which ones are best for your tree.

Pot choice is also subjective; ultimately some of the final decision will be made according to your own personal tastes. Some enthusiasts prefer more conservative pot shapes, textures and glazes, other enthusiasts prefer to make more unusual 'individual' choices.

 

Choice 1: Pot Dimensions

The first thing to consider is the size of the pot that you will need. The correct pot dimensions can be achieved using some basic rules according to the dimensions of the tree itself. The general rule of thumb is that the pots depth should be equal to the diameter of the trunk just above soil level. For oval or rectangular pots, the length of the pot should be 2/3 the height of the tree. For round pots, the diameter of the pot should be 1/3 the height of the tree.

For trees with especially wide canopies a wider pot can be necessary and this can be compensated by using a slightly shallower pot. As equally, a tree with a very thick trunk (in comparison with the height of the tree) may suit a slightly deeper but narrower pot It should be remembered that these guidelines are based on aesthetics only. For horticultural reasons, some tree species require larger or smaller pots. Species with very fast growing roots such as Trident Maples often require deeper pots whilst flowering and fruiting species such as Crab Apples require more root run and therefore deeper pots.

Choice 2: Pot Shape

The style of pot that you choose will need to harmonize with the tree. You need to take a look at your tree and evaluate it's characteristics. Try to decide whether your tree is masculine or feminine. Many trees are a combination of both although usually one is dominant than the other. This is very subjective; for some people a tree may be masculine, for others, it might be feminine. Ultimately as the owner of the tree it is for you to decide. It should be noted though that a firmly masculine tree will never look right in a very feminine oval pot; in turn a feminine tree will always look awkward in a masculine pot.

 

What makes a tree feminine or masculine?

A masculine tree gives an impression of strength, it might have a heavily tapered trunk, have craggy, mature bark, strong angular branching, it may have deadwood. It may have a straight, powerful trunk or a dense canopy. A feminine tree will have a more delicate appearance, a smooth trunk line, smooth bark, sinuous movement in it's trunk and branches. A light canopy and slow taper.

Some tree species are predisposed to being considered feminine or masculine; Pines or angular Hawthorns are often considered masculine whereas delicate Japanese Maples will be considered as naturally feminine. However, a strong, heavily tapered Japanese Maple with delicate leaves and branching could be considered to be a feminine species with masculine features, whilst a tall Hawthorn with craggy, rough bark, gentle curves and very gradual taper could be considered a masculine species with a feminine characteristics. With trees such as these it is necessary to identify which is the strongest feature and reflect it. Is it the craggy, fissured bark of the hawthorn or the gentle curves of the trunk that have the strongest visual impact? Is it the delicate branching of the Maple or the powerful tapered trunk that attracts your eye most? Fortunately, it is possible to find pot designs that can reflect both femininity and masculinity.

Pots are considered feminine or masculine. Deep pots with strong angular features are considered masculine whilst more feminine pots are shallower with softer lines. For instance, strong chunky, deep rectangles with sharp corners are very masculine pots, as are square pots. These are suited to thick heavy trunked masculine trees, especially conifers. For thick-trunked deciduous trees, the corners of the rectangle can be rounded thus reducing the masculinity of the pot a little. Working down through the scale of masculinity, deep chunky ovals come next and then we have drums/round pots that are androgynous i.e are suitable for a masculine or feminine tree. After this we move into the feminine pots which are shallow delicate ovals and very shallow round literati pots.

Pot Shape Basic Guidelines

Rectangular pots are suitable for coniferous species and big deciduous trees with very pronounced taper, wide base, heavy buttressed nebari. These are used for masculine trees to add a feeling of strength in the tree

Oval pots Suitable for reflecting the femininity of deciduous trees, clump style bonsai, groves and forests. The less taper the tree has the more feminine it tends to become, sinuous curves can also dampen the masculinity of a tree.

Round. Suitable for coniferous or deciduous feminine trees, particularly (but not exclusively) for literati bunjin trees. Tall straight or sinuously curved trees with very little taper are the most feminine and the pots that tend to suit these trees are very shallow rounds.

Pot Lip or Rim

A lip on the upper rim gives additional strength to a masculine tree.
A straight rim is softer for more androgynous trees
A bowl/convex side is more suited to feminine trees

Pot Corners

Sharp, right-angled corners are masculine and suitable for masculine trees
Indented corners on a rectangular pot soften the masculinity of a pot.
Rounded corners softens the pot further, beginning to resemble a oval pot and more suitable for masculine deciduous trees

Feet of pot

The main purpose of feet on a bonsai pot is to allow for good drainage and airflow, but feet can also be used to change the pots appearance. Feet can be subtle and decorative or strong and robust. These qualities can be used to influence the over all feel of the pot, big chunky feet can add strength to the design and understated delicate feet will have the opposite effect.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.