Bonsai Healing Methods

It all starts when the tree is young and green believing that such healthy state is eternal. Soon you will realize that leafs start dropping off which is a first sign of some sort of deficiency.

We all know that most Bonsai Trees need a very specific amount of water to stay alive. Too little water can result in brown leaves and a dried, wilted trunk. Too much water can become trapped, rotting the roots of the tree and causing the leaves to turn brown. And we do know that different breeds of Bonsai Trees rely on different environments to stay alive.

However, the majority don’t flourish in direct sunlight. This doesn’t mean that they’re indoor plants. A lot of them do better outdoors. If you don’t know what type of Bonsai Tree you have, and what kind of sunlight it likes, keep it outdoors in indirect sunlight as a rule of thumb. It is often very possible that you Bonsai Tree simply needs more room to grow. If it’s been a long time since you’ve repotted your tree, consider doing it now. Most new bonsai tree owners are not equipped to grow it. Oftentimes, they see the plant, think, "Wow, how cool!" and bring it home, knowing nothing about how to take care of it. It's not difficult to grow a bonsai, but it does require that you understand the fundamentals about how to take care of them. You need to learn about bonsai if you want a happy, healthy plant. If you take the time to learn, your tree will bring you years of joy.

Identify the Problem

Kiyonal Healing and Grafting Cream for Bonsai

First, you should look closely at your Bonsai tree to identify what the problem is. Look for signs of insect infestation, such as wilt, mites, and webs (they may be difficult to spot, especially on an indoor tree.)

Next, check for signs of disease, over-watering, or under-watering. Foliage spots, wilt, browning

leaves, soft roots and/or trunk, or creases in the trunk are all signs of disease.

Signs of Under-watering:

If you look carefully at the trunk, you can see tiny creases that indicate that the plant is shriveling up.

If you stick a finger into the soil, it feels hard and dry. An extensive root system may indicate that the roots have been venturing far and wide, trying to find water.

                                              Jav 

Signs of Over-watering:

The roots appear to be rotting and the trunk is soft.
A shallow root system may be a sign that the roots have not had to search for water.
Root-rotting bacteria love moist environments and feed on dead roots. As roots die as a result from over-watering, bacteria spread.
You may see tiny white things in the soil. This may be a sign of fungus gnat larva, which like soil that is kept too moist for too long and also feed on the smallest, finest feeder roots.
The plant looks tired and no longer vibrant and healthy.
An excessive number of leaves turn yellow and fall off.
The smaller branches shrink and die away.
Eventually, the roots may not be sufficient to hold the plant up, and it may fall to one side.

As you can see, it's much easier to recognize the signs of too much water; a lack of water is much harder to detect.

Trim the Dead Spots

You’ll want to trim away parts of the tree that are dead to encourage future growth. Pinch away brown and/or wilted leaves from the stem, and use pruning shears to trim away any dead stems or branches (a branch is dead if it crumbles, or snaps away with ease). Treat the Tree with a Gentle Insecticide

If you’ve determined that your Bonsai is infested with pests or fungi, spray it with a light insecticide

or fungicide spray. Determine your tree’s symptoms before you choose the spray, to ensure that you buy the correct treatment. Lightly spray the foliage of the tree to ensure that every area is lightly coated in the chemical.

Moisture Level Checker (Click on image for more information)

Check the Moisture Levels

Before you doing anything else, check the moisture levels in the soil. To do this, stick your finger 1-2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, the browning leaves may be caused by dehydration. These next steps will help the plant to recover from this common problem.

Alternatively, you may want to try an electronic moisture-checking device. This will help you to get quick results and allow you to take swift action before mold kicks in. Remember that mold is can cause severe damage to your Bonsai. Once mold kicks in, it may be too late to recover your Bonsai from decay.

Take Care of the Roots

Remove the Bonsai Tree from the container and look closely at the root system. With pruning shears, cut away any dead or rotten roots. These roots may be preventing the Bonsai Tree from receiving the nutrients it needs. Cut them back to the root mass, and be careful not to cut any healthy roots.

Place the Bonsai in a Temporary Container

Let the Bonsai rest in a clean container filled with tepid water. While it’s resting, clean out its former container thoroughly, and begin preparing a new soil mix. The soil should be loose, and able to retain water efficiently. The best soil mixture will depend a lot upon the type of Bonsai Tree you have, so choose carefully. Create a mixture with a good fertilizer, and nutrient-rich potting soil. Place wire mesh around the drainage holes, and fill the container a third of the way with soil.

Let it Soak

Take the Bonsai out of the water, and place it in the center of your container. Fill it the rest of the way with soil. Afterward, place it in a large container of water (like a sink or a bucket) while it’s potted. The water should reach about 1 inch over the surface of the container. Let it sit in the water until the soil is free of air.

Remove the tree from the water, and allow the water to drain from the drainage holes.

A Warm, Shaded Area

Choose a well-ventilated, warm, and partially shaded location to place your Bonsai until it heals.


How to revive a Bonsai if dried out?

Imagine that you come back from a long vacation and discover that your Bonsai dried out. The first thing that comes to your mind is ''Oh dear, oh dear, so much effort, so many years wasted and now this!'' 

This is what you have to do: immediately submerge the bonsai, pot, and all, in a large container full of water. wait until the bubbles have dissipated, indicating the pot is already saturated. take out of the water and place the bonsai in a shaded spot of your garden. probably all the leaves will fall off after a few days which is the plant's way of concentrating its energy to survive and not wasting it on d replaceable leaves. in a few days, buds will appear. go to a bonsai store or a garden supply and buy a bottle of Superthrive a concentrated vitamin for plants. read the instructions on how to apply. Water the bonsai with a few drops of Superthrive in your watering can. in a month your bonsai should be fully recovered.

         Japanese Av Star

Bonsai Tools Explained

You will be surprised to find out that countless Bonsai care tools exist throughout the World of Bonsai. Please always remember the saying ''different strokes for different folks'' meaning that some tools may be good for hardwood but some others don't. Another point to remember is that expensive does not necessarily translate to good bonsai tools. 

There are literally dozens of types of Bonsai Tools that have evolved over the millennia, tool that are specialist in their use, like the branch splitter; and some like the Jin Pliers, which have evolved from everyday home utensils. The Jin Plier are no more than Chinese Tongs used to hold the hot wok with its Angled tapered head and nose.

Over the years, Bonsai Tools have become essential for Bonsai professionals. Bonsai trees that are cut with simple scissors can not achieve clean and sharp cuts as Bonsai Tools do.

I shall present the tool grouped by how they are applied to everyday Bonsai maintenance tasks, like Pruning, Re-potting, Shaping and Wiring, and Carving, Feeding and Watering. I have found a nice video on youtube that gives a glimpse on Bonsai tools for beginners. It explains why you should start with cheaper tools first.

Branch & Leaf Pruning

Bud & Fine Twig Shears (Koeda Kiri Hasami) - These long reach scissors are designed for pruning delicate branches, twigs and buds. Their long slender handles are ideal for those difficult to reach places.

General Purpose Shears (Ashinaga Basami) – These comfortable shears are for your every day

Branch & Root Shears (Hasami) - This heavy duty tool allows you to prune your Bonsai’s thicker Roots and Branches. Its broad blade allows you raverse the fully width in one clean cut, allowing for smooth and clean cut end to end, and good for healing cleanly and quickly. To use, for pruning fine to medium branches and roots. Do not walk into your Bonsai Garden without them. The large handles allow you to use all your palm and fingers to exert maximum pressure.

The Concave Branch cutter (Mataeda Hasami) - is used to remove a whole branch at the trunk. The concave cut left behind fills over itself leaving little or no scar.

The Knob cutter (Kobu Kiri Hasami) - leaves an almost spherical cut on the branch thereby allowing it to heal flush with the surface. 

Leaf cutter - Easy to use, spring loaded leaf cutters, with razor sharp blades, it makes defoliating trees a breeze.

Re-potting Tools

Root Cutters – In shape almost like the Branch splitter, but the cutting lips are not as deep as those of a branch splitter, and the lips are positioned at a slight angle as the Branch Splitters are positioned horizontally. Ideal for cutting the thicker tap roots and adventitious roots and for nipping out root stumps closer to the trunk.

Root Hooks – Single and Multi-pronged invaluable tool when re-potting. The single-pronged hook is used to tease out individual and difficult roots, while the multi-pronged hook is used to untangle root balls.

Drainage Screens – Draining Sieves play two roles, one it prevents the loss of soil from the drainage holes, and second it helps keep insects and another pest out of the pot. Use a non-clogging variety of drainage screens.

Rakes – Like root hooks are used on smaller root balls, and to plane or rake the surface of the soil on a Bonsai pot to remove debris or to agitate the topsoil if it has got compacted or to remove surface weeds.

Tweezers – have a multitude of tasks but are mainly used to remove weeds and unwanted buds.

Spatulas – Very important tool, make sure you get a strong heavy metal-grade spatula, is used for many tasks around the potting shed, but I think the most important of them is to tease those stubborn little trees out of their pots when you need to re-pot them.

Sieves – To ensure that you use just the right size grit or growing medium for you bonsai. 

Scoops – In valuable little helper, beats having to use your hand to fill the pot with, some of these handy scoops even come with an in-built sieve.

Tamping Trowel - Used to tamp down soil when re-potting or after mixing in solid bonsai feed.

Coir Brush – The brush end is used to smooth down soil surfaces and give a finished look, or just brush-off dead leaves and debris of the surface. The handle end made be used to clean or rub off branches and trunks unsightly loose bark or lichen, or perhaps even the odd pest.

Carving Tools

Shari and Si Diao Carving Tool - are used for creating and enhancing the quality of deadwood display on Bonsai.

Hand saw – for use in lots of little tasks. Look for a pull saw version if you can find one. Essential for when you are on those collecting field trips.

Grafting Knife – ideal for carving and also for propagation purposes.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring, and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

   Jav

How to repair a snapped bonsai branch

A favorite bonsai is blown off a bench during strong winds and several important branches get broken. Or, when wiring a tree, a branch is bent a little too far, and the branch snaps. Many things can actually happen when the tree is not indoor and then timing for a quick fix is crucial for the survival of the branch or even the entire tree.

Judging by the number of questions raised on the bonsai forums over the years, these are events that have happened to all of us at least once. Very often an enthusiast has tried to repair the branch themselves and though the cambium layer repairs itself, the wound keeps reopening and is a weak point in the branch.

So how do you successfully repair a snapped branch? Or does it just need to be removed and regrown? Though I have seen many repairs and remedies offered by fellow enthusiasts (ranging from the ridiculous to the sublime) the best way of repairing a snapped branch is extraordinarily simple. When there is a will there's a way! An easy example reflected below illustrates how to fix a snapped branch. Chances of recouping the branch are pretty high and I am not worried that in few months the tree will be back growing in full swing as it did from the very beginning.

I've snapped this thin privet branch and it shows a pretty typical scenario. As a two-year-old shoot, the wood is quite brittle so it has snapped on one side while being bent into position. If the branch is completely separated into two pieces, it cannot be repaired and should be pruned away and the wound cleaned up. However, if one side of the cambium layer (branch) is still attached naturally, it can literally be glued back together.

A spot of bonsai glue (any brand) is put onto the surface of the wood. As the callus forms, the paste drops off gradually without leaving marks. I have used this cut seal on my bonsai for a number of years and can not say enough about it. It is easy to apply covers nicely and blends in with the bonsai so as not to make it stand out. Highly recommend getting this to add to your bonsai supplies.

and the branch is glued back together. It really is as simple as that! The glue glues the woody parts of the branch together very tightly and supports the branch while the wound (and cambium layer) heals. Eventually, both sides of the snapped branch grow together; this can take as little as 3 or 4 weeks on vigorous branches during the growing season. I find that the repair is so strong that the branch can be manipulated (wired into position) within 5 minutes of the repair being made. The repair site will have lost its elasticity though, so don't not try to create a bend at that point.

Click on the image to for more information

Any excess glue will dry a white color on the surrounding bark. It is unsightly so try to avoid using too much glue when making your repair but any excess will fall away naturally after a few months. Finally, always keep some bonsai glue to hand. If you do a lot of wiring you will find it becomes a valuable tool! I find that as thicker branches are stronger and more robust they tend to splinter rather than snap and so this article focuses on branches up to around 1/2" thick. However, repairs can be made using this technique with thicker branches. Bonsai glue is not poisonous to a tree and will not harm the tree or the branch, nor will split glue damage any leaves (it just looks awful). The glue can be used on woody or tender shoots. There is no need to wrap or protect the glued area on branches of less than 1/2", above this diameter, a thin spread of Vaseline over the damaged bark/cambium is more than sufficient. There is no need to wire the branch or for the branch to be wired for the repair to be successful. The fact is that bonsai glue dries very rapidly and will tolerate moisture (in the wood) which makes it so effective for repairing branches.

This technique can be used on all tree species; coniferous, deciduous or broad leaf tree during active growth or during dormancy. This is about it, that's all that it takes to repair a broken branch. I would appreciate your feedback and share your gluing experience with many bonsai enthusiasts around the world.

Interesting Books on Bonsai can be found here:

The Complete Book of Bonsai --> I've been into bonsai for 25 years and this is the basic Bible for beginner and intermediate bonsai enthusiasts. It has an excellent section on techniques, including pruning, wiring and whatnot, and it has a large species-specific tree guide. If you're into bonsai and want only one book, this is it.

Indoor Bonsai The Great Selection --> Creating beautiful, healthy bonsai is a wonderful skill that anyone can learn, with a little time, patience, and this all-inclusive manual. With color photos and drawings to illustrate the points, it introduces all the cultivation techniques; offers expert advice on location, soil types, watering, and pest control; and provides intricate instruction on training the bonsai--including pruning, wiring and stretching it.

The Secret Techniques of Bonsai --> In The Secret Techniques of Bonsai, the author of the groundbreaking Bonsai With American Trees teams up with his son to offer not only the basics for creating perfect bonsai, but also secret techniques they’ve developed over years of careful work and observation.

Bonsai Survival Manual --> Problem solving when your Bonsai get sick. Expand your gardening repertoire as you create a captivating and exquisite miniature world. In this introductory guide, Colin Lewis covers everything you need to know to design, grow, and successfully maintain attractive bonsai.

Bonsai and the art of Penjing --> Bonsai & Penjing, Ambassadors of Beauty and Peace describes how Chinese penjing and North American bonsai were later added to the Museum, making its collection the most comprehensive in the world. Stories of individual trees and forest plantings are featured, as are the roles played by the skilled and talented creators of these living art forms people such as John Naka, Saburo Kato, Yuji Yoshimura, Harry Hirao, and Dr. Yee-Sun Wu.

Bonsai with Japanese Maples --> With their delicate foliage, seasonal color changes, and intricate pattern of branching, Japanese maples are among the most popular and suitable plants for bonsai design. In this long-awaited book, internationally renowned expert Peter Adams discusses both the specific horticultural needs of Japanese maples as bonsai subjects and illustrates proven techniques for creating and maintaining beautiful specimens.

The Modern Bonsai Practice --> The most current, useful information on growing Bonsai. Fresh, practical, definitive, comprehensive reference guide to the finest art of horticulture: growing miniature trees. Common sense bonsai answers separating myth from fact with depth and detail. Appropriate for both bonsai hobbyists and experienced practitioners.

The World of Japanese Maples

• Coonara Pygmy

  In spring, this dwarf Japanese maple unveils its pink-tinged leaves. The pink tinge fades in summer, but then in fall the Japanese maple leaves turns a brilliant shade of orange-red. Because of its small size, this maple is well-suited to containers.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Coonara Pygmy'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 8 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because: You need a Japanese maple for a container or for a small space.

  • Find more tips for growing Japanese maple trees.
• Green Cascade

  This fullmoon Japanese maple offers lustrous, finely cut green foliage and a delicate weeping habit. If not staked, it forms a flowing mound of foliage. In fall, the Japanese maple leaves turn shades of red and orange.

  Name: Acer japonicum 'Green Cascade'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: Groundcover to 10 feet or more

  Zones: 5-7

  Choose It Because: You need a good weeping variety.

• Autumn Moon

  Like the golden fullmoon Japanese maple, this Japanese maple features golden leaves. But on this variety, the leaves bear decidedly pink tones. In fall, these Japanese maple leaves put on a show in shades of red, orange, and yellow.

  Name: Acer shirasawanum 'Autumn Moon'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 25 feet tall and wide

  Zones:5-7

  Choose It Because: You need a Japanese maple with golden leaves.
• Hogyoku

  A great time-tested selection, this mid-sized Japanese maple tree bears rich-green leaves that turn bright orange in autumn. It's sturdy and tolerates heat better than many other varieties.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Hogyoku'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 15 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-9

  Choose It Because: You need a variety that's heat tolerant.
• Golden Fullmoon Maple

  An exceptionally beautiful plant, this Japanese maple tree features golden-yellow leaves through the summer. In fall, the leaf tips develop red edges while the leaf center stays golden.

  Name: Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 20 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-7

  Choose It Because: You need a Japanese maple with golden foliage.
• Beni Kawa

  A tree for all seasons, this Japanese maple features small green leaves that turn golden-yellow in fall. In winter, the plant really shines because of its clear-red stems. They look stunning against a backdrop of snow.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Beni kawa'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 15 feet tall, 12 feet wide

  Zones: 6-9

  Choose It Because: You want winter interest.
• Higasayama

  A favorite for bonsai, this dwarf Japanese maple tree offers pink buds that open into leaves colored in cream, green, and fuchsia. As the season progresses, the Japanese maple leaves fade to green, then change to glowing shades of gold and yellow in autumn.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Higasayama'

  Growing conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 15 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because: You enjoy variegated foliage.
• Emperor 1

  A favorite because of its dark purple-red foliage, the Japanese maple tree Emperor 1 is also a good choice for northern gardens as its leaves open a bit later than most -- helping it avoid late spring frosts. It also offers brilliant scarlet-red fall color.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Wolff'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 15 feet tall and wide

  Zones:5-8

  Choose It Because: You want a good red-leaf type or live in the North.
• Coral Bark

  A good-sized Japanese maple tree with multi-season appeal, 'Sango-kaku' features green leaves that turn brilliant yellow in fall. After the leaves drop, the stems show off a bright coral-red color.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Sango-kaku'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because: You want winter interest.
• Sumi Nagashi

  This big red Japanese maple tree variety offers deeply cut leaves and rich, purple-red foliage that looks good all spring and summer. In fall, the graceful leaves turn bright crimson.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Sumi nagashi'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size:18 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-8

  Choose It Because: You want a big red cut-leaf variety.
• Bloodgood

  A classic, the Japanese maple 'Bloodgood' offers deeply cut, purple-red leaves that hold their color well through the summer. Then in fall the tree develops striking crimson-red color.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Bloodgood'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 20 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because You want a time-tested big red cut-leaf variety.
• Villa Taranto

  This eye-catching variety of Japanese maple tree offers deeply cut, spidery leaves that emerge pink in spring, then fade to bright green in summer. In autumn the leaves again change -- this time to beautiful golden yellow.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 10 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because You want a small cut-leaf variety.
• Crimson Queen

  This stunning variety of Japanese maple offers weeping branches of beautiful crimson-purple foliage. In autumn, the finely cut leaves turn bright crimson.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Crimson Queen'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 12 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-8

  Choose It Because: You want a weeping red cut-leaf variety.
• Beni Schichihenge

  A smaller Japanese maple tree, this stunning variety offers blue-green leaves variegated in shades of pink and cream. In fall, they change to exciting shades of orange and gold. It also tends to resist leaf scorch from hot, dry weather better than many varieties.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Beni schichihenge'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 8 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 6-9

  Choose It Because: You want variegated foliage or a heat-resistant variety.
• Aconitifolium

  We think this is one of the most beautiful Japanese maples. It offers deeply cut, almost ferny foliage that opens to green and turns shades of red, orange, and yellow in fall.

  Name: Acer japonicum 'Aconitifolium' (also called 'Maiku jaku')

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 10 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-8

  Choose It Because: You need a cut-leaf Japanese maple with a great texture.
• Caperci Dwarf

  This small, slow-growing Japanese maple tree offers pink-tinged new growth that fades to green as the season progresses. Then in fall, the green leaves turn a nice shade of warm, glowing gold.

  Name: Acer palmatum 'Caperci Dwarf'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 6 feet tall; 10 or more feet wide

  Zones: 6-8

  Choose It Because: You need a Japanese maple for a container or for a small space.
• Vitifolium

  A big, sturdy Japanese maple tree, this variety offers wide, deep green leaves that turn bright shades of gold, yellow, orange, and scarlet in autumn.

  Name: Acer japonicum 'Vitifolium'

  Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

  Size: 25 feet tall and wide

  Zones: 5-9

  Choose It Because You need a Japanese maple that tolerates cold or warm weather well.
• • Dissectum Atropurpureum

    This classic Japanese maple variety bears deeply cut, feathery red-purple leaves that turn bright crimson in fall. We also love its graceful, weeping habit.

    Name: Acer palmatum 'Dissectum Atropurpureum'

    Growing Conditions: Part shade and moist, well-drained soil

    Size: 8 feet tall and wide

    Zones: 6-9

    Choose It Because: You want a good, small-size red cut-leaf variety.

    • Learn more about Japanese maples!

     Japanese Av Star